Cienfuegos
Cienfuegos, nicknamed ‘the Paris of Cuba’, was originally founded by French immigrants in 1819. It was their influence of classical architecture that helped gain this city UNESCO World Heritage status. Split into two main areas, the city centre and Punta Gorda, there is plenty to do in and around what Cuban’s call the ‘pearl of the south’.
The city centre is comprised of the main square, a couple branches of pedestrian streets surrounded by countless crumbling, neoclassical buildings and horse pulled carts mixed with classic American cars.
What To See In The City Centre
Parque Jose Marti
The heart of the city centre is Parque Jose Marti. Flanked by lions on pedestals at one end and their Triumphal Arch at the other, this was my starting point as I began to explore Cienfuegos. Within the park you will find the founding act of Cienfuegos, a marble circle that marks kilometre zero of the city. There are also multiple marble statues including Cuban revolutionary hero and the park’s namesake, Jose Marti. This well kept square is surrounded by grand 19th century buildings which are the main attractions.
Catedral de la Purisma Concepcion dates back to 1869 and is notable for its’ French stained glass windows. It is free to enter if it’s open.
The Government Palace, a grand, colonial neoclassical building with huge stone pillars and red dome, serves as the provincial assembly. Dating back to 1819, it was last remodelled in 1950 and has been well preserved. Although they don’t allow visitors it’s still worth a look from the outside.
Adorned with glistening mosaics, the Teatro Tomas Terry dates back to 1889. This 950 seat auditorium was built in honour of business magnate Tomas Terry, whose statue sits in the lobby. You can visit the theatre on a guided tour for $5CUC and it is open Monday to Sunday 9-6.
The Ferrer Palace, also referred to as the Benjamin Duarte Cultural Centre, offers the best view over Cienfuegos. The bottom of the building functions as an art gallery, but the stairs to the rooftop can be found in the entrance to the right. Once there a climb up the round, iron staircase will lead you to views over the entire square and the rest of Cienfuegos. Best of all, it’s free! Be warned some jinoteros hang out near the entrance and try to scam tourists into paying an entry fee.
Also located around the square is the Provincial Museum which features indigenous artifacts as well as items from 19th century French-Cuban society.
EL Bulevar
Also referred to as Avenue 54, El Bulevar is a pedestrian shopping street that runs from Parque Jose Marti to Paseo del Prado. There are many significant buildings along this street too. On the corner of the main square at the start of the avenue is Casa del Fundador (House of the Founder) which belonged to founder Louis D’Clouet and is the oldest building in Cienfuegos. These days it is just a souvenir store, but worth noting as you pass by. For anyone after Cuban cigars, rum or coffee I highly recommend visiting Casa del Habano (House of Cigars). Dark wooden display cases containing a large range of Cuban cigars lead the way to a their small in house bar. The staff, who spoke English, were very knowledgeable and helpful.
Notable hotels along El Bulevar include Hotel La Union, a neoclassical building built in the second half of 19th century, known for it’s central location, housing one of the cities finest restaurants and for celebrities that have stayed here inlcuding Ana Pavlova. Hotel Bristol, originally known as the Continental Hotel, dates back to 1890 and was a popular venue for social events.
Build in 1878 by Manual De Blanco, Palacio de Blanco is considered one of the most beautiful residences outside of Havana and declared a local monument. Tienda la Principle is considered another architectural jewel of the city and has been in continual operation since 1822. You will also find Restaurante La Verje, set in the birthplace of the Fernandez Cavada brothers, generals during the Cuban War of Independence.
Paseo del Prado
Like Havana, Cienfuegos also has a Paseo del Prado. This long boulevard stretches from the city entrance down to the Malecon and is lined with trees and benches. At the crossroads between the boulevard and Avenue 54 there is a life sized statue of locally born “Prince of Mambo” Benny More. The city holds an annual festival in honour of the musician each November. While here try and listen to his song Guajira where he sings “Cienfuegos is the city that I like most”.
What To See In Punta Gorda
The Malecon
At the end of Paseo del Prado, the Malecon begins. This mostly sea front walk stretches for over 2km through Punta Gorda. Many people choose to hire a bike and take this route to Puna Gorda park. It boasts nice views across the bay and features some pretty gorgeous examples of architecture, including Palacio de Valle. Influenced by French, Italian, Arabic and Cuban artists it is a mix of several architectural styles. Interestingly the towers are each symbolic, signifying love, religion and strength. It is open to those who wish to visit the restaurant and bar. From some parts of the Malecon I was also able to make out the dome of the Jaragua Nuclear Power Plant. The plant began construction under a joint agreement between Cuba and the Soviet Union but was never completed and eventually abandoned.
La Punta Recreational Center
At the southern-most tip of Punta Gorda is a romantic little recreational park. It’s a great place to watch the sunset and has 180 degree views of the bay. There is a small strip of beach where locals flocked for a swim as the sun set. There are some tables and chairs if you arrive early enough as well as some pop up food stalls.
What To See Outside Cienfuegos
Playa Rancho Luna
I happened upon this beach by accident on my way to Castillo de Jagua. I’d walked to the pier to take the ferry directly to the castle only to be ushered into a crowed old school bus full of local families in their beach gear instead. When we stopped at Rancho Luna and the bus cleared out I thought I may as well check it out. Market stalls, food trucks and a few small carnival rides filled the park behind the beach which was packed with locals and travellers alike. From the beach you can see the down to Punta Coloradas and its’ lighthouse. There is a nearby dolphinarium with shows at 10am and 2pm for $10CUC. There is also a diving centre within walking distance of the beach.
Castillo de Jagua
Jagua Castle dates back to 1745 and was commissioned by King Philip V of Spain as a fortress to protect the bay from pirates. You can visit the castle and it’s museum for $5CUC. All explanations are in Spanish, but it’s really the view of the bay that makes the visit worth it. To get here you can take a 40 minute ferry from Patana Pier in downtown Cienfuegos which is supposed to depart twice daily at 8am & 1pm, returning at 10am & 3pm. Alternatively you can also take a bus to Pasacaballos where a much shorter ferry operates more regularly.
Diving
Although I didn’t dive in Cienfuegos I found it extremely difficult to find any information on diving in Cuba before I went so thought I would share this information. The Faro Luna dive centre is located nearby Playa Rancho Luna and is ACUC certified. They offer dives at 9am and 11am everyday. Prices start at $35CUC per dive and include all equipment. If you’re here for a long time you can buy deals for up to 20 dives at $21CUC per dive. They also offer guided snorkelling tours for $20CUC. There are dozens of diving locations just off the coast here and they have helpful dive maps in store.
Where To Stay In Cienfuegos
I highly recommend Marilope Hostal in Cienfuegos! For anyone traveling by Viazul, it doesn’t get anymore convenient than staying directly across the street from the terminal in this beautiful colonial house. Hosted by Gabriel and his lovely parents, they went above and beyond to make me feel welcome. His father met me at the terminal and helped me across the street with my things. His mother, who speaks excellent English, showed me to my room and then poured me some fresh juice and pulled out a map of Cienfuegos, answering any questions I had. When I inquired about where I might find a bakery she insisted that she would go for me and brought back some of the best bread I’ve had outside of France. They also had an on site modem which once again allowed me to use internet in my room. My room had 2 single beds with tall ceilings, personal air con and ensuite. Breakfast for $5CUC was plentiful. It was an easy 1km walk to the main square and for less than $15CUC per night!
Getting To & Around Cienfuegos
Viazul
The Cienfuegos bus terminal is located just over 1km west of the city centre. Here you can purchase Viazul bus tickets heading to Havana, Varadero, Playa Giron and Trinidad. You’ll need to connect in Havana or Trinidad to get to further destinations. The ticket office has inconsistent hours and there is often a long wait. Try to book as early as possible to secure yourself a ticket. My name was scribbled onto a piece of paper and I was given no confirmation but when I returned the next day to check in everything seemed to work out.
Train
For those desperate enough to use the train in Cuba, the railway station is located directly behind the Viazul station. One train operates the 10 hour journey to Havana, leaving at 7am, but not departing everyday. Check at the station for schedule times.
Local Bus
Local busses in Cienfuegos range from old American school busses to converted trucks. You can purchase local bus tickets inside the main bus terminal and also hale most busses in the street. I had intended to take the ferry, when I was instead ushered onto an old school bus and ended up down in Rancho Luna. The busses appear to run down Pasacaballo hourly, but who knows for sure, this is Cuba afterall. From Rancho Luna to the Pasacaballo ferry I was standing in the back of a coverted truck, on the way back however the driver invited me to sit in the cab. As we made stops along the way he had me collecting fares from the locals as they boarded. The confused look on their faces as they handed their money over to a blonde girl with barely any Spanish was priceless. The driver then dropped me directly outside my casa, absolute legend. Local busses seemed to cost $1CUC regardless of the distance.
Ferry
There are ferries running from Patana Pier, that make a 40 minute journey through Cienfuegos Bay to Castillo de Jagua twice daily. I was told they run at 8am and 1pm, but it seemed to have left early. The return journey is meant to be made at 1pm and 3pm. There is another much shorter ferry that runs between Pasacaballos, Castillo de Jagua and Ciudad Nuclear, which operates every 15-30 minutes or so. The journey cost me $2CUC each direction.
Horse & Cart
As well as the usual classic American car taxi’s that permeate every Cuban city, horse & cart taxi’s are throughout Cienfuegos.
Bike Rental
Due to the long stretch between the city centre and Punta Gorda many people opt to hire a bike to get around. Casa Las Golondrinas rent basic bikes from $5CUC per day, or you can upgrade to a hybrid with gears from $15CUC per day.
