Santa Clara
Santa Clara is known as Cuba’s revolutionary capital thanks to events that took place here on December 1958 when Che Guevara and his guerrillas gained control of the city, leading the Cuban Revolution to victory. Today the main attractions here are centred around this historic event and Cuba’s Revolutionary hero.
What To See In Santa Clara
Parque Vidal
Parque Vidal marks the centre of Santa Clara. Centred around a pillared pavilion, the large, open square provides plenty of shady trees and an ETECSA hotspot. There are several prominent buildings surround the square, including the Provincial Palace & Jose Marti Library, the Decorative Arts Museum and Teatro La Caridad. The Hotel Santa Clara Libre sits along the western edge of the square. It’s not just the bright green that makes this building stand out, but the bullet holes that are still indented on its’ façade from the 1958 Battle of Santa Clara.
Che Guevara Mausoleum
The cities main attraction is the Che Guevara Memorial and Mausoleum, about a 2km walk from Parque Vidal, directly across from the Plaza de la Revolution. The bronze statue of Ernesto Che Guevara sits on top of a 16 meter high platform with the words “Hasta la Victoria Siempre”, meaning “Ever Onward Toward Victory”. It is surrounded by stone blocks with carvings that depict Guevara’s achievements, including leading the rebel army from the Sierra Maestra. Follow the stairs down behind the memorial to get to the museum & mausoleum. Entry is free but you cannot take bags or cameras. There is bag storage available for $1CUC by the car park. The small museum, which I highly recommend, showcases objects that once belonged to Che and takes you through the events of his life. Starting with his birth in Rosario, Argentina, his time studying for a medical degree, his introduction to communism and his unconditional love for all Latin American countries, to becoming a Cuban Revolutionary hero and the most wanted man on the CIA’s hit list before finishing with his death at the hands of the US in La Paz, Bolivia 1967. The mausoleum, which is rather peaceful, contains star plaques dedicated to Che Guevara and the other guerrillas who died during the Bolivian revolution as well as an eternal flame which was lit by Fidel Castro. In 1997 Che’s remains, as well as 16 others, were recovered from a secret grave in Bolivia and buried here.
Monumento a la Toma al Tren Blindado
The Monument to the Taking of the Armoured Train is a small outdoor museum on the site where Che Guevara and his guerrilla army derailed an armoured train, subsequently winning the Revolution against the Batista government. The bulldozer used in derailing sits at the entrance and several enclosed train carriages make up the remaining displays. There is a ticket office within and entry is $1CUC, however it is often unattended.
Che Con Nino
Yet another monument to Che Guevara is this statue titled Che and Boy. Full of symbolism it is said to represent the next generation and features several small, hidden figures that illustrate significant life events. I thought it was definitely worth checking out.
Loma del Capiro
This viewpoint, 30-40 minutes walk east of the city centre, rewards your efforts with views over the entire city. The hill is well known for being used as a hideout by Che Guevara in the lead up to the battle of Santa Clara. The walk up passes through quiet residential streets where chickens and other livestock roam freely. The area at the top was littered with some pretty unpleasant trash but the peace and quiet and the view made up for it.
Street Art
Walking through the streets of Santa Clara I saw quite a bit of street art. Though slightly deteriorating and heavily featuring images of Che Guevara, it’s worth keeping an eye out as your explore the city.
Constantino Perez Carrodegua Tobacco Factory
This tobacco factory offers tours from $4CUC per person. Some of the cigars they roll here include Montecristo, Romeo y Julieta and Partagas. Directly across the street is La Veguita, where you can purchase these cigars. This is where I did all of my cigar shopping. The staff are knowledgeable and helpful.
Where To Stay In Santa Clara
Hostal Cary Y Lazaro is the perfect casa particular to base yourself at while in Santa Clara. It has a great location just north of the city centre, less than 500 metres walk from Parque Vidal. Lazaro and his mother offer several rooms which makes it a great option to meet other travellers. I stayed in room 4 and had a comfortable bed, private air conditioner, ensuite and bar fridge. Breakfast was $5CUC and among the best breakfasts I had in Cuba as on top of all the standard items they included delicious cookies! Lazaro, who speaks excellent English, gave me a map of Santa Clara and gave me tips of where to eat, what to see, etc. He also arranged my onward collectivo to Varadero. Although they don’t have wifi available on site, it is only around the corner from an ETECSA hotspot at Parque del Carmen. Highly recommend!
Getting To & Around Santa Clara
Viazul
The National Bus Station, a long, unventilated, cesspool of a building with absolutely no organisation, is the arrival and departure point for several Viazul busses. I was well and truly into my Cuba trip when I reached Santa Clara and was accustomed to some disorganisation and the need for patience, but nothing prepared me for this bus station. I had arrived by collectivo, however walked the 2km here to book my onward ticket a day prior. After finally finding the line, which stretched halfway along the terminal, I waited for over an hour an a half surrounded by cigarette smoke and exhausting collectivo drivers harassing us every 10 seconds. I entered into the Viazul office, where the man, unconcerned with the 50 odd people still waiting, informed me that the busses were completely sold out. If you enjoy suffering through incompetence and insist on bussing be sure to buy your ticket well in advance. For anyone who has pre-purchased tickets online be sure to get here early for check in as this was the only line and many people with tickets missed their bus anyway.
Collectivo
If you read about my Viazul station experience it is probably no surprise that I highly recommend leaving Santa Clara by collectivo. I paid $25CUC to Varadero and it was totally worth it. I organised my collectivo through my casa host. Alternatively you can’t miss the drivers hassling travellers outside the bus station ready to take their business once the busses fill up.
Airport
Santa Clara has its’ own international airport with limited flights to/from Canada and Panama.
Train
The train from Havana to Santiago de Cuba stops in Santa Clara. You can check schedules and purchase tickets locally.
Horse & Carts
As well as the classic American car taxis found all over Cuba, there is the option to take a horse & cart around Santa Clara.