EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT LAOS
Cruising along the Mekong on a slow-boat, witnessing awe-inspiring religious ceremonies, partying all night in Vang Vieng; the small nation of Laos is a must on any South East Asian itinerary. Despite a lifetime of war and struggling for independence, the people of Laos are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet. They are proud of their country and with spectacular scenery and a rich culture, they should be.
The national currency is Lao kip (LAK) however US dollars are also accepted. Thai Baht is accepted by some businesses nearby the Thai borders. Laos is very much a cash society and ATM’s are readily available in the major cities. However beware of the ATM fees which vary between 30,000-60,000LAK and note that not all ATM’s will tell you they are charging a fee.
As one of the poorest countries in South East Asia it is very cheap to travel around. Prices during my 2018 visit were approximately:
Beer: 9,200-15,000LAK/$1-1.75USD
Large Bottle of Water: 5,000LAK/$0.58USD
Food: 15,000-50,000LAK/$1.75-$5.85USD (Local Meals & Street Food)
Accommodation: $50,000-85,000LAK/$6-10USD (Hostel), 100,000-450,000LAK/$12-50USD (Midrange Hotel)
Motorbike/Scooter Hire: 70,000LAK/$8.20USD per day
Tipping is not customary in Laos. Thanks to certain travelers, some restaurants aimed at tourists will add a service charge. Tipping is appreciated but not expected.
Most foreigners visiting as tourists are able to obtain a 30 day visa on arrival when entering Laos. You will need your passport, $30USD in cash and 2 passport sized photos. Always double check the visa requirements for your nationality beforehand. For Australian passport holders I have found smarttraveler.gov.au to be a reliable source.
Laos has several airports throughout, with the two main ones being Luang Prabang International Airport and Wattay International Airport in Vientiane.
There is no rail system in Laos, with the exception of approximately 3km of railway track stretching from Thailand, over the Friendship Bridge, to Thanelang Railway Station, south of Vientiane. The shuttle train run to Nong Khai, just over the Thai border, where daily trains operate to and from Bangkok. The sleeper train is modern and comfortable. Seats are folded flat to make beds, complete with a thin mattress, sheets, privacy curtain, light and plug. Luggage is stored under the seats, just ensure you have it locked as it will be out of your sight.
The two most common ways to travel within Laos are by boat or by bus. Most travelers who come from Northern Thailand will travel along the Mekong River by slow boat. Speed boats are also available for those on a tighter schedule. Busses between cities can easily be booked online, at stations or through most accommodation. They generally don’t need to be booked in advance.
You must try a refreshing and cheap Beerlao when in Laos. They are available everywhere and generally cost no more than $1USD.
Lao-Lao is a rice whiskey, similar to rice wine in the sense that it is cheap, strong and leaves you with one hell of a hangover. Made from distilled sticky rice, it has been brewed for hundreds of years all throughout Laos. Bottles of whiskey containing whole snakes or scorpions are a popular souvenir.
Sticky rice is a staple food in Laos. It is generally served in woven bamboo rice baskets with most meals. Laab is another signature Laotian dish. A salad that can be made using a variety of minced meat or fish with lime, fish sauce and herbs.
Thanks to French influence during it’s period as a French colony, baguettes can be found at most Laos food markets and cafes.
Don’t miss out on a Lao bbq. A large rounded tray with either fire or hot coals underneath is brought out to your table. Your choice of meat is bbq’d on the top, while broth if poured into the base of the tray and is used to make soup and to cooked any vegetables or noodles.
The official language of Laos is Lao, however most people I encountered spoke at least a bit of English. It’s always a good idea to learn a few basics of the local language.
Hello – Sabaidee
Goodbye – La Kone
Thank-you/Thank you very much – Khop Tchai/Khop Tchai Lai Lai
Cheers – Tham Keo/Tham Jak
Yes/No – Tchao/Bo
In the major cities most accommodation and many restaurants will have wifi available making it easy to communicate. However if you want the added security you can purchase local sim cards for a very reasonable price. I opted to go with a Unitel prepaid simcard. I spent 50,000LAK/$5.85USD and got 1.5GB to use within 30 days. It worked perfectly throughout my time in Laos.
A country that has changed hands many times, Laos only gained it’s independence in 1954. Once a great Kingdom of South East Asia, they have endured centuries of power struggles. From constant invasions by the ancient Burmese and Siamese kingdoms, to French colonization, a Japanese invasion and being used by the USA to fight in the Vietnam War, Laos has withstood a lot in it’s time. Below is a timeline with a brief overview of Lao’s history.
Brief Timeline:
1357-1372 – Fa Ngum, the first King of Laos created the first unified state of the Lao people, the Lao Kingdom of Lan Xang. The capital of which was based in modern day Luang Prabang.
1500’s – King Setthathirath moved the capital to Vientiane in order to better defend against Burma. The Burmese invaded and occupied Laos from 1575. It wasn’t until 1591 that they regained independence.
1600’s – European explorers recorded their visits to Laos, describing it as “a land of magnificent palaces, temples and awe-inspiring religious ceremonies.”
1700’s – Succession disputes broke out and at the beginning of the 18th century Laos was divided into 3 kingdoms; Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Champasak. This allowed the Siamese (Thai) to easily invade and by the end of the century most of Laos was under Siamese rule.
1820’s – A war led to Laos being surrendered to Siam.
1893 – French Indochina (a group of French colonies in South East Asia) expanded and Siam was forced to surrender Laos to the French, making it a French colony.
1945 – During World War II the Japanese briefly occupied Indochina. During this time the Laos resistance group Lai Issara was formed to prevent the return of the French, however in 1946 the French resumed their rule.
1954 – Laos regained full independence.
1960’s – In 1961 the USA used Laos to assist them in the Vietnam War. The American CIA trained an army, mostly from Hmong ethnic groups, to fight in what became ‘the secret war’ against the communist Pather Lao organization who were backed by North Vietnam. This intensified conflict between the royalist Vientiane government and the Pathet Lao which led to a civil war. During this time Laos became the most heavily bombed country in the world with the American Airforce dropping the equivalent of one planeload every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day for 9 straight years.
1975 – With the Fall of Saigon and the end of the Vietnam War the Pathet Lao took control and established the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos. Many Hmong people, who had supported the Pro-US government, relocated to Thailand, USA & other countries. Several groups hid in the jungle as fugitives.
1997 – Laos became part of ASEAN (Association of South East Asian Nations). The Asian Financial Crisis occured destroying the value of Lao kip currency.
2009 – Following hundreds of Hmongs surrendering to authorities in late 2007 and other Hmong groups plotting coups to overthrow the communist government in 2008, Thailand deports over 4000 Hmong asylum seekers back to Laos.
2010’s – Lao experiments with capitalism by joining the World Trade Organization, opening stock markets and approving plans to build infrastructure such as dams and highways with neighboring countries.
2018 – Laos is one of the world’s few remaining communist countries and is one of the poorest countries in South East Asia.
- If travelling during Chinese New Year be sure to pre-book! Accommodation fills up and day tours sell out as thousands of Chinese tourists flock to their neighboring country Laos.
- Watch the road! If you choose to rent a scooter or a car, be aware that most roads are rough and unfinished. If you don’t want to wipe out and then be driven to hospital by local police on the back of your damaged bike then take it slow and watch for holes in the road.