bagan
Bagan, an ancient city like no place on earth and one of my absolute favourite places. Bagan was once the capital of Pagan, the first kingdom to unify what is now Myanmar. Between the 11th and 13th centuries over 10,000 temples, pagodas and monasteries were built. In 1287, due to repeated Mongol invasions, the Pagan Empire collapsed. Today you will find more than 2,200 remaining temples and pagodas spread out over 104 square kilometers. It is the densest collection of Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries in the world.
There are several options for getting around in Bagan. I recommend exploring by e-bike, it may just be the highlight of your trip! For a full day you’re looking at 7-9000 kyats or if you pick it up after midday some places will give you a half day deal for around 5000 kyats. It is illegal for foreigners to ride motorbikes in Myanmar, so e-bikes are the way to go. Make sure they are fully charged, get a map from your hotel and you’re good to go. It’s a good idea to take a picture of the odometer before you start to keep track of how many kilometers you have left and avoid getting stuck. Regular bikes are available for a few dollars, however be aware that many of the roads are thick sand.
Taxis are also readily available. You can hire a driver for the day for around 50,000 kyats or 20,000 kyats for a half day. They are cheapest when booked directly with the driver. Be sure to barter and make sure you agree on a price beforehand.
You should also experience a Bagan Horse Cart while you are here. They are approximately half the price of a taxi and offer full day, half day and individual trips. The drivers know the area well and were more than happy to stop and let me take pictures along the way.
The main attraction here is, of course, Old Bagan and the Archaeological Site. While there are over 2200 temples, here are a few that I highly recommend you see. I began at Htilominlo. Standing 46 meters high, this temple is among the best preserved in Bagan. The remains of frescos and murals can still be seen inside this temple. Legend has it that the King needed to determine which of his 5 sons would be his successor. So his sons stood in a circle around an umbrella and whomever the umbrella fell toward would be the next king. It fell towards the King’s favourite son Htilominlo and this temple is believed to have been built on the spot where this was determined.
Not far from here is Oak Kyuang Gyi. This collection of stupas is great to explore by foot. Behind the main temple is a field where locals farm and stupas stand in every direction. You can also climb a narrow staircase to the roof for sunrise or sunset.
Not far from here is also a viewing platform to watch the sunset from. These are continuing to be built in order to help better preserve the temples.
The first pagoda you will pass as you leave Nyaung U is Shwe Zi Gone Pagoda. It is sure to catch your eye with its huge, gold leaf gilded stupa. This stupa is believed to contain a bone and tooth of Gautama Buddha.
Tha Kya Pone was a temple I absolutely loved exploring as it’s a little off the beaten track and I had it all to myself. Follow the trails back as far as you like through cacti and stupas for a real sense of adventure.
Constructed in 1105, Ananda Temple is one of the most important temples in Bagan and is one of only four surviving temples in Old Bagan. Inside you will find four Buddhas each facing a cardinal point. The north and south facing Buddhas are believed to be originals.
Another one of the four surviving temples, and also the tallest temple in Bagan at 61 meters, is Thatbyinnyu Temple.
Dhammayangyi Temple is the largest in Bagan and is sure to catch your eye. For reasons unknown the middle section of this temple is closed off by brick, however you can still access the outer corridor.
The Mahabodhi Temple is another example of amazing architecture. It features a pyramid-like tower and over 450 carved Buddhas. It was built in the 13th century and was modelled after the Mahabodhi Temple in India.
One of my favorite memories from my time in Myanmar was at sunset on my second night. We had just left the Ananda Temple and were heading to watch the sunset, when a local boy offered to take us to a good place. Against out better judgement we followed him down the dirt road at full speed on our e-bikes…sorry Mum and Dad. We rode for maybe 5 minutes, further and further, as it got more and more secluded, before he finally pointed to a small, red brick, temple just behind the trees. After nearly crashing our bikes in the thick sand we started running after this guy to get up the top before the sun set. As I entered the temple I was led to a small and narrow staircase on the left, each step lit with a candle. The staircase led to the roof, where we climbed the outer ledges of the brick and joined maybe 10 other foreigners to finally watched the sunset. From here we had a great view of Dhammayangyi Temple with the sunset reflecting off it. Despite hours of research I still have no idea what the name of this temple is, however I have found others that had a similar experience at a nearby temple called Ta Wet Hpaya. This is still a highlight from my last couple months in Asia.
You may have seen the iconic pictures of the hot air balloons flying over the ancient temples in Bagan. This is the place to experience a hot air balloon ride and tick it off your bucket list! You have the choice of 3 companies, all offering experienced foreign pilots. Balloons over Bagan have been operating the longest and started in Myanmar in 1999 offering balloons which can accommodate between 8-16 passengers. Prices start at $330USD p/person. Oriental Ballooning began operating in 2013 in Myanmar and offer flights for 4-8 passengers starting at $380USD. Then there’s Golden Eagle Balloons, who started in Bagan in 2014, they offer flights for 8 passengers starting at $370USD.
All flights are weather depending. Make sure you book well ahead of time as they can sell out months in advance. I can highly recommend Balloons Over Bagan for this once in a lifetime experience. You will be picked up bright and early in one of their vintage busses and taken on a bumpy ride to the departure point. Enjoy a cup of tea or coffee and listen to their safety briefing before climbing into one of the 16-person balloons and enjoying an incredible 45 minute flight as the sun rises over the temples below. We landed on a sandbank beside the Irrawaddy River and were greeted with champagne and pastries. They do also offer you the opportunity to purchase a photos taken by the balloon’s Go Pro, which is reasonably priced when split between a few of you.
If you are here for a few nights you may want to visit Mount Popa. Located about 50km south-east of Bagan, atop this extinct volcano, is the Popa Taungkalat Monastery. It is believed to be home to Nats, Myanmar spirits, and is a popular pilgrimage for Nat Buddhists. 777 stairs lead the way to the top where you will have a 360 degree view. Beware of monkeys that may try to steal your belongings. For those of you who love hiking, or for die hard photographers, opposite the monastery is Taung Ma Gyi, or Mother Hill, which offers great views of the monastery. The monastery will take at least a half day from Bagan. You can book it locally or online.
Lacquerware is a really popular souvenir in Myanmar, but the best of it comes from Bagan. Here the designs are engraved, opposed to just being painted on. There are a few small lacquerware factories you can visit where they will show you the process and give you the chance to purchase an authentic piece.
As you enter many temples you will likely be approached by someone trying to sell you sand paintings. If you’re interested you can barter them down to a reasonable price, if not a simple “I’ve already got one” is enough for them to leave you alone. Markets, however, are a slightly different story. If you don’t want to buy anything be clear about it and make sure you don’t tell them “later”. These people are nicknamed ‘mosquitos’ because they will follow you all the way through the temple and back to your hotel in some cases. I arrived at a temple and was greeted by a lovely local woman who introduced herself and insisted on pinning a handmade ‘friendship badge’ on me. She then showed me her market stall and despite me being very clear that I didn’t want anything, when I returned from the temple she had taken my shoes and moved them to her stall so I would have to pass by her again. This is about as ‘tourist trap’ as it gets in Myanmar, and Bagan is the only place I experienced this, which is absolutely amazing compared to everywhere else I’ve been in Asia.
One of many things that I absolutely loved about Myanmar is how untouched and new to tourism it is. Even here in the most touristic place I visited, most of the people genuinely wanted to just have a conversation or offer their help. Something that is extremely rare when traveling these days. It saddens me to think that this will change as time goes on, which is another reason why now is the time to see Myanmar.
Getting here is easy from most major cities/towns. From Mandalay there are 4 busses daily, which take about 6 hours in total and cost approximately $16USD. From both Inle Lake & Yangon the bus takes around 8-9 hours and will cost between $16-20USD depending on whether you want an ordinary or a VIP bus.
You also have the option to take the train, however I wouldn’t recommend this as they are very slow and often have delays. From Mandalay the train takes around 8 hours and is $13USD. From Yangon the journey takes 13.5 hours and costs $17-28USD depending on which seat you choose.
There is also an airport in Nyaung U, about a 20 minute taxi ride from Old Bagan which costs 7-10,000 kyats. This connects to several domestic airports such as Yangon, Mandalay, Heho (for Inle Lake), Monywa and Homalin.
However you choose to get here, as you enter the archaeological zone you must pay 25,000 kyats.
There are 3 main areas to stay in Bagan. New Bagan, located on the banks of the Irrawaddy River, is approximately 5 kilometers south of Old Bagan. Here you will find a more modern atmosphere with many newer properties as well as backpacker accommodation such as Ostello Bello Bagan. Old Bagan, where the Bagan Archaeological Site is located, offers high end accommodation next to several notable temples. Then you have Nyaung U, where I recommend staying, about 5 kilometers north of Old Bagan. Nyaung U is a local town offering plenty of dining options, tours, convenience stores, ATM’s and plenty of souvenir shopping.
There are several dining options along the main road in Nyaung U, including local cuisine as well as Italian, Indian, Mexican and more. Myanmar is general doesn’t have a huge nightlife, however if you’re wanting to have a few drinks, head to HTI Bar & Restaurant. They have a great cheap cocktail list, good music and free wifi. Their opening times are 9:30am-11pm, but they stayed open later for us.
