Machu Picchu
You can’t come to Peru without visiting it’s most iconic sight, Machu Picchu. Hidden amongst the clouds up in the Andean mountains and steeped in mystery, it is considered the best archeological sites in South America and is among my absolute favourite places in this world.
About Machu PicChu
Although no one really knows for sure exactly when or why it was built, the ancient city of Machu Picchu is believed to have been build by Inca Pachacutec for the elite members of the Incan Empire during the 15th century. Many believe it was a place of pilgrimage and a political, religious and administrative center for the Incan Empire. At it’s peak it is believed to have had 500 inhabitants. It was then mysteriously abandoned, disappearing from history and remaining hidden from most of the world for almost 400 years, until it was re-discovered in 1911 by scholar Hiram Bingham. Fortunately, it was never discovered by the invading Spaniards, so the ruins themselves have been well preserved. Although unknown, some theories suggest it was abandoned in order to keep it hidden from the Spaniards. Despite locals knowing about the site, it has since become referred to as The Lost City of the Incas. The name Machu Picchu itself actually means Old Mountain.
The Incas were some of the best stonemasons in the world. The stones used in the buildings at Machu Picchu were cut with such precision that they fit perfectly together without any need for mortar. The stones were pushed up the steep mountain side where they were shaped by pounding them with smaller rocks.
The Incas were also very advanced in astronomy. They defined constellations and were the only civilization in the world to do so for both light and dark constellations. They believed that every living thing had its own corresponding star which protected it. Astronomy also played an important part in their agriculture as it allowed them to track the change in seasons. Machu Picchu was built according to the sun and evidence of this can be seen by visiting the Temple of Three Windows, the Temple of the Sun or Intihuatana. Another interesting discovery is that the ruins of Machu Picchu, as well as other Ican sites such as Pisac and Ollantaytambo, are geodesically aligned. Fun fact, if you were to drawer a straight line around the centre of the Earth sacred sites such as Machu Picchu, the Nazca lines, Easter Island, Petra, Angkor Wat and more all line up within one degree of latitude.
The Inca religion was heavily connected to nature. They worshipped gods such as the sun god Inti, the moon goddess Mama Kilya, the god of thunder Illapa and Pacha Mama (Mother Earth). The Incas believed that everything around them was connected so balance and harmony was an important aspect in their religion. As such Machu Picchu was built to be in harmony with nature. Their beliefs in these natural forces are reflected throughout many Inca sites including Machu Picchu. Despite the crowds I found there is something very peaceful and almost spiritual about being there. The Incas believed in three worlds; Hanan Pacha (Heaven), Kay Pacha (the present/Earth) and Uku Pacha (the Underworld). Several structural features, such as steps and windows, are in sets of three and are symbolic of these worlds. The Incas believed that gods and even ancestors could appear in the form of out of the ordinary natural features such as mountains, trees, stones or rivers, etc. These were considered to be sacred sites where they would worship these spirits, called Huacas and Machu Picchu is home to many Huacas. The Incas also worshipped three sacred animals, the puma, the condor and the snake.
Visiting The Ruins
From Aguas Calientes you have two options for getting to Machu Picchu. Option one is to climb for approximately 1 hour 30 minutes up the mountain side to reach the main entrance. Option two is to take the bus. Busses depart from Avenida Hermoas Ayer every 10-20 minutes throughout the day and take around 30-40 minutes to wind their way up to the main entrance. You must purchase your bus tickets in advance from the Consettur Ticket Office on Puente Sinchi Roca. An adult ticket cost 81.50PEN/$24USD & children cost 40.50PEN/$12USD for a round-trip and you will need to show your passport and your entry ticket to Machu Picchu. Be sure to arrive early for your bus as the lines grow very quickly.
Once you arrive at the entrance you will need to line up to show your ticket and your passport. You must purchase your tickets to Machu Picchu in advance to avoid missing out. You can do this either online or through a tour operator if you’re booking a package. You will need to select an entry time at the time of booking, which are every hour from 6am until 4pm. I highly recommend opting for the 6am entry to try and beat the crowds and make the most of your time at the ruins. There are bathrooms available for 1PEN at the entrance as well as lockers some lockers for larger backpacks, etc.
We entered through the turnstyles and made the short climb to the first of the ruins. Walking along the ancient terraces we caught out first glimpse of the stone ruins amidst the clouds. The ruins are made up of an upper and lower area and visitors begin on the upper terraces with that iconic view of Machu Picchu. I could never get sick of that view! It was breathtaking, both times.
We continued climbing the terraces to reach the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock. The hut has been restored with a thatched roof and is believed to have been used to mummify the Incan nobility. Our guide pointed out the three steps on the Funerary Rock and explained it was symbolic of the three worlds.
We made out way down the terraces and to the lower section of Machu Picchu where we visited the Temple of the Three Windows. Each window once again representing one of the three worlds, Heaven, Earth and the Underworld.
From above we could see into the Temple of the Sun, which is off limits to visitors. It is one of the most sacred temples on the site and it is believed that priests paid tribute to the sun god Inti, the most important Inca god, by performing sacrificial ceremonies. The temple also served as an astronomical observatory and features trapezoid windows which were used to predict the summer and winter solstices.
From here we made our way through the ceremonial baths where our guide described the way they would have lived. He pointed out a roped off rock which is said to be shaped like a llama. We also saw an example of an ancient Incan toilet.
We passed through the Sacred Plaza and the rock quarry, keeping our eyes out for cute little viscachas, an Andean rodent. In the square sits The Principal Temple, or Main Temple, made up of three walls lined with trapezoidal niches and an altar along the rear wall. To the left of the temple is a diamond shape stone surrounded by ropes. This is known as the Incan compass, each corner pointing exactly north, east, south and west.
The Incas stonemasonry is really something to behold. Several rocks throughout the site are shaped to look like surrounding mountains.
We made our way to Intihuatana, a sacred stone used to indicate the two equinoxes. Twice a year the sun will sit directly over the stone creating no shadow. The name roughly translates to Hitching Post of the Sun and it is often referred to as a sundial. The large base was used to place offerings. The four corners of the stone point to magnetic north and each cardinal point.
At the far end of the ruins, before reaching the entrance to Wayna Picchu, is The Sacred Rock, also known as Wank’a. It is said that it was carved to resemble Yanatin Mountain behind it. It is considered a spiritual area to receive positive energy and was once used for rituals.
At the lower end of the ruins are cells which are referred to as the prison group. Part of this group is the Temple of the Condor. It is named so for a carving of a condor head and rock walls which are shaped like its’ wings. From here the rope pathways lead you back to the exit. Due to the large number of crowds they have introduced a one way system. We tried our luck with the security guard who allowed us to take the stairs leading back up to the terraces. I can not get enough of this view!
Getting There
By Rail
The quickest and easiest option for getting to Machu Picchu is to take the train, though it is certainly not the cheapest option. Both Inca Rail and Peru Rail offer daily services to Aguas Calientes from Cusco, Poroy and Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. It is considered to be one of the greatest train journeys in the world. It’s always recommended to book in advance as tickets can sell out.
Both options are similar in price and offer both basic and luxury options. Inca Rail offer 4 different experiences. The Voyager is their basic service which includes snacks and beverages on select services, The 360° which features panoramic windows and an outdoor observatory wagon as well as First Class and Private carriage options. While Peru Rail offer three different train experiences. The Expedition, The Vistadome which features panoramic windows as well as onboard cultural entertainment and The Belmond Hiram Bingham, a luxury train including gourmet foods and onboard entertainment. I highly recommend experiencing the train at least one way on your journey to Machu Picchu.
Classic Inca Trail
The most famous hike in South America, the Inca Trail, is a definite bucket list item! Stretching for 39km from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu through the Andean mountain range, there are various versions of this trail which can be hiked.
The classic option is the 4 day/3 night Inca trail, which departs in the early hours of the morning from Cusco, passing through the town of Ollantaytambo on the way to KM 82, the starting point of the Inca Trail. There are various campsites along the trail and each company may have a slightly different itinerary. Generally speaking day 1 is a moderate to difficult day of hiking as you ease into the trail. Day 2 is the most challenging day of the trek as you summit Warmiwanusca, also known as Dead Woman’s Pass, which is the highest point of the trail at 4200m above sea level. Some operators will also summit the second pass, Runkurakay which sits at 4000m above sea level, on the second day. Day 3 passes over Phuyupatamarka, at 3680 this is the third and final pass on the trek. This is considered the most scenic campsite on the trail. Many operators will continue to the Incan ruins of Winay Wayna, which translates to “Forever Young” for their final night of camping. Day 4 consists of making your way through the Cloud Forrest to Intipunku, more commonly known as the Sun Gate, to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu below. A one hour descent leads to the ruins, generally before the busloads of tourists arrive. Many tour operators will also offer this itinerary over a 5 day/4 night period for those wanting to take a more leisurely pace.
2 Day Inca Trail
The first time I visit Machu Picchu I chose to take the shorter version of the Inca Trail on the 2 day/1 night trek. This option involves just a single day of hiking and is considered to pass through some of the best scenery, ruins and terraces of the longer trail. We departed in the very early morning from Ollantaytambo railway station. The train ride takes about 1 hour 45 minutes which was enough time to sip some coca leaf tea in preparation for the day’s hike. We arrived at KM 104 and made our way across the river to the Incan ruins of Chachabamba, our first checkpoint. From here we spent the next 3 hours zig zagging up the mountainside.
Our efforts were rewarded when we finally reached the top and arrived at Winay Wayna, one of the best known Incan sites along the trail. Built on a steep hillside these ruins date back to the 15th century and feature breathtaking views of the Urubamba river and surrounding valley.
A steep stairway connects clusters of houses in the upper and lower parts of the ruins which are surrounded by ancient terraces presumably used for farming. The exact purpose of these ruins is not know but some suggest it was a place of rest for royalty and elders traveling along the Inca trail, while others say it was a place of religious significance.
From here it was a relatively easy trek as we continued through the cloud forest, with the last couple of minutes being a vertical climb on hands and feet to reach the famous Intipunku, or Sun Gate. As we took our first steps through the ancient gateway we took in our first glimpse of Machu Picchu in the early afternoon. It’s hard to put into words how this moment felt looking down at the iconic ruins, but I could have lived in it forever. We slowly descended to the ruins themselves, constantly stopping to appreciate the view. After some free time on the higher terraces of Machu Picchu we made our way by bus down the mountain to the town of Aguas Calientes where we spent the night before returning early the next morning to explore the ruins in full.
Things to know about the Inca Trail:
Book in advance! The trail must be hiked with a licenced operator and it’s a good idea to book early, as permits can sell out as early as six months in advance during peak season (May-August). Only 500 people are allowed to begin the trail daily including all guides, porters and chefs. The trail is closed for the month of February. Most tour companies will include tents, meals, a porter as well as entry into the ruins at Machu Picchu.
The Salkantay Trek
As an alternative to the Inca Trail many traveller’s will choose to hike the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. This option is recommended for fit and experienced hikers as it’s almost twice as long at around 74km and much harder with the highest peak being Salkantay at 4500m above sea level. It generally takes 5 days/4 nights, with the first four days spent treking and the final day spent visiting Machu Picchu. The trek begins in the town of Mollepata and passes through some of the highest mountains in the Andes in the Vilcabamba range, the cloud forest and jungle. Day four is generally spent traveling from the town of Santa Teresa, past the Hydroelectric Station and on to the town of Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. Unlike the Inca Trail, you don’t enter the ruins from the Sun Gate, but via the main entrance. Despite there being less Incan ruins, the Salkantay trek offers mountain scenery and a higher chance of seeing Peruvian wildlife such as chinchilla, deer and, if you’re lucky, spectacled bears. It is also considerably less travelled than the Inca Trail meaning you will have most sites to yourself. You also don’t require any permits making it a much easier option to book last minute. It can also cost roughly half the price of the Inca trail depending on the operator and the level of accommodation you choose.
The Jungle Trek
Yet another well known trail to Machu Picchu is the Jungle Trek. This option is again considerably less costly than the famous Inca Trail and is designed full of action packed activities. The classic Jungle Trek is 4 days/3 nights. Day 1 will involve traveling by bus to the top of Malaga Mountain at 4300m above sea level, before 3 hours of mountain biking down the other side with an optional white water rafting to follow. Accommodation on night 1 is generally a home stay at an Eco Lodge. Day 2 is generally the toughest day of this hike when the real trekking begins. It follows parts of the original Inca Trail before arriving in the town of Santa Teresa for the night. Most operators will begin day 3 with the option of a 3 hour hike or zip lining, before meeting at the Hydroelectric Station to begin the 3 hour walk to Aguas Calientes. The fourth and final day is spent exploring the ruins of Machu Picchu.
Bus to Hidroelectrica
The most budget friendly option for traveling to Machu Picchu is to take the bus from Cusco to the Hydroelectric Station. From here it is a mostly flat, 12km walk following the train tracks to the town of Aguas Calientes. This was the option I opted for on my second visit to Machu Picchu. It can easily be organised last minute and often comes as a package including the return bus transfer from Cusco to Hidroelectrica, meals, accommodation in Aguas Calientes and entry into the ruins of Machu Picchu with a guide on the second day. We bartered hard and managed to get a package for $95USD per person.
Our day began with an early morning departure from the main square of Cusco in an overcrowded mini bus. We drove for around 6-7 hours, winding through the stunning Sacred Valley, making stops for bathroom breaks and in the towns of Ollantaytambo and Santa Teresa to pick up/drop off people. Around 2pm we reached Hidroelectrica where a rather disappointing buffet lunch was included. There are bathrooms here for 1PEN and snacks/drinks can be purchased for the hike. This is the final stretch of both the Salkantay and Jungle Treks so the trail can get quite busy. It’s an easy 12km walk on relatively flat terrain following alongside the train tracks. My top tip would be to pack light. We were able to leave our big bags at our hostel in Cusco so only took what we needed for the one night. It’s a scenic walk next to the Urubamba river and surrounding lush, green mountains. There is the odd café/restaurant enroute, put there especially for the many tourist that pass by daily. We arrived at Aguas Calientes in the late afternoon. After a 6am entry into Machu Picchu and several hours exploring the ruins, which was still just as breathtaking and amazing the second time around, we collected our bags and followed the same trail back to Hidroelectrica.
