SAINT PETERSBURG
Once the capital of the Russian Empire, St. Petersburg is brimming with imperial charm and grandeur. Originally founded by Peter the Great in 1703, it was home to Russia’s tsars for over 200 years. With 342 bridges crossing over the Neva Delta, the city has been dubbed Venice of the North. St Petersburg is surely a city for history lovers, boasting extravagant palaces, world renowned museums and countless monuments that memorialise the many bloody wars and revolutions that shaped the country.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Palace Square
The heart of St Petersburg, Palace Square is considered one of the most beautiful architectural examples in the world. This huge pedestrian square is surrounded by beautiful and historical buildings with the Winter Palace along the northern edge and the General Staff Building curving around its south. Alexander’s Column, named for Alexander I commemorates the 1812 victory over Napoleon. It is the world’s highest freestanding column at 47.5m. A local told me that when it was first placed here everyone stopped using the square for fear that it would fall down. Fortunately, it has remained standing for over 200 years. The square bore witness to several historical moments including the 1905 Bloody Sunday and the 1917 October Revolution and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Hermitage
Home to one of the biggest art collections in the world, the renowned Hermitage Museum is a must while in St Petersburg. I was told that if I spent 1 minute per item for 7 hours a day, even after 10 years I would not have seen everything. I spent hours wandering the authentic interiors of the museum, exploring every inch of the Egyptian hall, which houses real mummies, and visiting the private quarters of the Romanovs. The museum is housed across several buildings but the main complex is located in the Winter Palace which was home of Russia’s Tsars until the 1917 October Revolution. Top tip! Be sure to buy your tickets online and get there early to avoid the massive queues. If you buy in advance you can enter through a separate entrance to the right of the Winter Palace. I waited all of 5 minutes. Download your audio guide through the Hermitage app before arriving.
Other buildings include The Small Hermitage located next to the Winter Palace, beside this is The Great Hermitage which houses Raphael’s Loggias, an exact copy of the gallery of frescos in Vatican City, commissioned by Catherine The Great in the 1780’s. There is also a Hermitage Theatre and The Building of Menshikov Palace which focuses on Russian Culture from 18th century.
You won’t miss The New Heritage building, the entrance of which is supported by granite atlantes. I was told to rub the big toe on the sculpture of Atlas and make a wish. During WWII when bombs were dropped by the building it remained standing and ever since locals have believed it to be lucky. Newlyweds supposedly come here and hold the statues big toes for luck and happiness in marriage.
The General Staff Building, curving around the southern half of Palace Square, was built between 1820-1830 and is among the most famous buildings in St Petersburg. In the centre is a triumphal arch which celebrates Russia’s victory in the war of 1812. While parts of the building are still used by Government departments, a large section is part of the Hermitage museum and features artworks by the likes of Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Matisse, Renoir and Seurat.
Church of Our Saviour On Spilt Blood
Also known as the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, The Church of Our Saviour on Spilt Blood was built as a memorial on the site where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. During WWII, when the city was under siege by nazis, the church was turned into a makeshift morgue but also became a place to store vegetables, giving it its’ third nickname Saviour and Potato Church. This colourful Russian Orthodox Church houses the largest mosaic collection in the world.
Peter & Paul Fortress
The birthplace of St Petersburg, the Peter & Paul Fortress lies on Zaiachy Island across from the palace embankment at the widest part of the River Neva. Originally founded by Peter the Great to defend the city from Swedish attacks, the fortress walls are 12 meters high and 20 meters thick. Thousands died in its construction giving St Petersburg its nickname The City of Bones. Made up of several museums, a bastion and grand cathedral, there is lots to see within its walls so give yourself plenty of time.
The indisputable main attraction, The Peter and Paul Cathedral, can be seen from all over the city. Its gilded spire reaching 122.5 meters tall makes it the tallest Orthodox church in the world. It is the final resting place of the Russian Imperial family the Romanovs, including Peter the Great, Catherine the Great and Emperors Alexander III and Nicholas II.
The Trubetskoy Bastion Prison was the main political prison in Imperialist Russia. Notable prisoners include Prince Alexei, son of Peter I, author of Crime & Punishment Fyodor Dostoevsky as well as Lenin’s older brother Alexander Ulyanov. After the 1917 October Revolution The Bolshevik Party, led by Vladimir Lenin, came into power in Russia aided by the prison’s garrison. This time became known as The Red Terror and eventually led to the Russian Civil War. Members of Russia’s imperial family were imprisoned here. The Bolshevik’s created The All Russian Extraordinary Commission, known as CHEKA, who had the right to imprison anyone they thought to be a threat and many people were sentenced to death without a trial. Concentration camps were set up around the country and decades later mass graves were discovered, including at The Peter and Paul Fortress. In 1924 it was converted into a museum and today you can freely explore the recreated prison cells.
The Museum of the History of St Petersburg is an exhibition showcasing items from everyday life while telling the city’s history from 1703-1918. The fortress is also the location of the first Soviet research laboratory which today houses the Museum of Cosmonautics and Rocket Technology. It was here that engineers designed rocket engines which would go on to become prototypes for the Soviet Space program.
The name Zaiachy comes from the Russian word for hare and statues of rabbits can be found throughout the fortress. One statue, located in the moat, is said to give good luck if you can land a coin on its platform. Take a walk along the curtain wall for a view of St Petersburg. From here you can also watch the daily 12pm firing of the Noonday Gun.
Individual tickets are required for each of the fortress’ attractions. Combined tickets can be purchased at the Central Information Desk by the entrance.
Saint Isaac’s Cathedral
Once the tallest cathedral in Russia, St Isaac’s cathedral dominates the skyline of St Petersburg. It was built between 1818-1858 on the same site where Peter the Great commisioned a wooden church in 1710.
Although its painted ceilings are very mesmerising, I recommend visiting for the view! For an additional fee you can climb the stairs to the base of the dome for a 360° view of the city.
The Embankments
There are several embankment areas offering scenic river walks throughout the city. The most well known stretch is probably Palace Embankment, stretching between the Summer Garden and the Winter Palace, it passes several imperial palaces while taking in views of the Neva.
Catherine Palace
25km south of St Petersburg in the city of Pushkin is the extravagant Catherine Palace. It is part of the Tsarskoye Selo Complex of Parks & Palaces, once the summer residence for the tsars. Explore the great halls, state rooms and Rastrelli’s Golden Enfilade including the renowned Amber Room. Purchase tickets in advance via their website to save waiting in line.
Peterhof
30km west of St Petersburg is the town of Peterhof. Within the town you can visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Peterhof Palace, also referred to as the Russian Versailles. Build by order of Peter the Great, it served as yet another summer residence for the tsars. Explore the Grand Palace as well as the gardens which house the world’s largest fountains.
Nevsky Prospekt
Boutiques, department stores and upscale restaurants can be found along Nevsky Prospekt, the main shopping street in St Petersburg. Along the avenue is Gostiny Dvor, the city’s oldest shopping centre and one of the world’s first shopping malls.
For souvenir shopping you can also try the outdoor market nearby Our Saviour on Spilled Blood Church on Canal Griboedov. Prices are generally quite a lot higher in the touristy city centre. If you’re traveling around Russia I would recommend getting your nesting dolls in Moscow at the Izmaylovo Markets.
Chizhik Pyzhik
Meaning siskin, a type of finch, in Russian, Chizhik Pyzhik is a tiny bronze statue hidden under the bridge where the Moyka and Fontanka Rivers meet. Installed in 1994 it pays tribute to a law school dating back to 1835 which was once located nearby. The students uniform had the same green and yellow colouring of the finch, leading to the nickname and a rhyme. It has allegedly been stolen several times but is continually replaced. Local legend says that if you make a wish and then can land a coin on the statue your wish will come true. It’s harder than it looks!
Saint Michael’s Castle
Also known as Mikhailovsky Castle it was built between 1797 and 1801 as the imperial residence of Paul I (Pavel I), son of Catherine the Great. It is the only castle in St Petersburg. It is said Paul lived in constant fear of assassination and built this castle in order to feel safe. Unfortunately, he only resided in the castle for 40 days before being brutally murdered in a palace coup. It now houses part of the Russian Museum, which focuses of Russian art, but you can enter the courtyard for free where there is a monument to Paul I. It is said that Paul I still haunts the castle and that there is a window where he can be seen playing the violin. Anyone who knows me knows I love a good ghost story.
Bridges of St Petersburg
Known as the city of bridges St Petersburg is made up of 42 islands with a total of 342 bridges connecting them. Late at night the city’s drawbridges are opened to allow the passage of large ships to and from the Baltic Sea. The opening and closing of these bridges has become a must see for visitors, with several companies offering midnight cruises along the canals and Neva River to see the bridges up close. Most depart around midnight and last a couple hours. Another popular spot to watch the raising of the bridges is from Dvortsovy Most where there is live music and street vendors. Among the most well known bridges is The Kissing Bridge, Potseluev Most, named so because of its location on the outskirts of town where people would kiss goodbye.
Summer Garden
Founded by Peter The Great in 1704, the Summer Garden was St Petersburgs’ first garden. Situated alongside the Summer Palace, it is known for its marble statues and grand water features. Just across the upper or lower Swan Bridge is the Field of Mars. Dating back to the city’s beginnings the Field of Mars began as a military parade and training ground. As the city’s bloody history played out the park became a burial ground for the Victims of the February Revolution and again during WWII. In the centre of the park is Russia’s first eternal flame which is in memory of all victims from the many wars and revolutions. Today both parks are nice places to escape the busy city and get back to a bit of nature…just don’t think too hard about what lies beneath.
Marble Palace
The Marble Palace, named so for the 32 different types of marble used in its construction, was originally built as a gift from Catherine the Great to her lover Grigory Orlov, who died before it was completed. Today it is part of the Russian Museum and houses collections of modern art by artists such as Picasso and Warhol.
Pavlov’s Dog
You’ve probably heard of Pavlov’s dog, the test subject of conditional response experiments undertaken by Russian physiologist, Ivan Pavlov. He rang a bell each time he fed his dog and eventually whenever the dog heard the bell it would automatically start salivating, as a conditional response. Today Pavlov’s dog can be seen on display at the city’s Hygiene Museum.
Pyshechnaya Cafe
This nostalgic, soviet style donut shop has been serving pyshki (donuts) since its doors opened in 1958. Located a short 10 minute walk from the Winter Palace, on Bolshaya Konyushennaya, if often has a line up out the door. For less than $1USD per pyshki, these are a must try while in St Petersburg.
Decemberists’ Square
Now known as Senate Square, it is where in 1825 the Decemberist soldiers unsuccessfully revolted against the new emperor Nicholas I. The centre of the square is marked by the statue Bronze Horsman, a monument to Peter the Great from Catherine the Great. Nearby the bitumen square there is a beautiful rose garden from which you can appreciate views of St Isaac’s Cathedral.
Watch Ballet at Mariinsky Theatre
Lets face it if you’re ever going to watch a ballet what better place than in Russia? The Mariinsky theatre is the best place to watch a Russian ballet in St Petersburg. Similar quality to that of Moscow’s renowned Bolshoi Theatre, be sure to purchase your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out.
WHERE TO STAY
Baby Lemonade Hostel
With no shortage of hostels, it can be hard to know which one to pick in St Petersburg. Inspired by the 60’s & 70’s, Baby Lemonade felt like a home away from home. Located in the city centre it is within easy walking distance of all major attractions and multiple metro stops. Each dorm room has a different theme, including “Woodstock”, “John Lennon” and “Magic Bus”. They also offer the “Bob Dylan”, “Twiggy” & “Jimmy Hendrix” rooms for those wanting private accommodation. Each bed came with my must haves; power point, reading lights and locker. My favourite thing about this hostel was the common area/kitchen. Retro wallpaper decorated with old vinyl and black & white photos, it’s the perfect place to relax after exploring the Hermitage or meet other people at one of the vodka parties. They also offer free walking tours which I highly recommend!
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Fly
Pulkovo Airport (LED) is just 17km south of St Petersburg. There are several direct flights from all over Europe and connecting flights worldwide. From the airport to the city centre you can opt to taxi for $20-30USD or you can choose to take public transport. Bus N39 departs from both terminals 1 and 2 and takes approximately 30 minutes to Moskovskaya Metro Station where you can connect with the metro to continue to the city centre. Busses operate every 15 minutes or so from 6am-1am.
Bus
The Central Bus Station, Avtovokzal, is located less than 5km from the city centre. Here there are several domestic services as well as international busses to/from Finland, Estonia, Latvia and Ukraine.
To get to the station from the city centre by taxi can take anywhere from 15-40 minutes, depending on traffic. Alternatively you can also take the metro purple line to Obvodnyy Kanal, approximately 5 minutes, then walk the remaining 10 minutes to the station.
Train
I arrived in St. Petersburg as my final destination on the Trans-Siberian Railway. See my complete guide for the Trans-Siberian railway here.
There are four international train stations across the city, each one conveniently located nearby a metro station. The main station is Moskovsky Railway Terminal in the city’s center, with most of its’ trains running to and from Moscow. Side note, directly next to the station is Galleria shopping mall which I recommend for anyone in need of a little retail therapy!
Vitebsky Station and Ladozhsky Station offer routes to and from The Baltics and other Eastern European destinations. I departed from Finlyandsky Station on a high speed train to Helsinki, Finland. Allegro offers four return services daily and tickets can be purchased up to 90 days in advance. This station is well known for being the site of Lenin’s return in 1917 in the lead up to the revolution. Today a statue of Lenin stands in the square outside the station.
Public Transport
St Petersburgs’ well connected public transport system is easy to navigate and generally operates from 6am until midnight. It’s also included on the Citymapper app which makes it so easy to find your way around.
St Petersburgs’ metro is the fastest way to get around. It operates 5 lines, the green, purple, blue, red and orange lines. To use the metro you must purchase a token from a vending machine or ticket office for 55RUB ($0.75USD). Alternatively you can also purchase a multi ticket valid across all public transport for 1-7 days or the reloadable transport card called Podorozhnik which gives you a discounted fare of 38RUB ($0.50USD). To view the route map, station opening hours, etc visit the metro website here.
Buses, trolleybuses and trams all operate throughout the city. They charge a flat rate regardless of distance. It’s 55RUB ($0.76USD) which is paid on entering or exiting, or 36RUB ($0.45USD) if using a the Podorozhnik card. There are also privately owned commercial busses, called marshrutki, which operate alternative routes to the public busses. They are usually marked with a letter ‘T’ or ‘K’. The benefit of these is that they are often faster and can also make stops on request.
