A GUIDE TO LUANG PRABANG
A place of religious traditions, seemingly never-ending street markets and surrounded by natural beauty, Luang Prabang has more to offer than meets the eye. Once capital of the ancient Lao Kingdom, Lan Xang, today Luang Prabang remains the country’s religious capital. It’s name literally translates to Royal Buddga Image. The heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Listed city is the Old Quarter. Surrounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, it is known for its’ fusion of traditional Lao and colonial European architecture.
What to see and do
Shortly after arriving off the slow boat we set out to the highest point in the city of Luang Prabang, atop Phousi Hill (pronounced Pussy Hill). 355 stairs will lead you to Wat Chomsi, a small temple at the top. Here you can take in a bird’s eye view of the city and enjoy a spectacular sunset. Try to get here early as it can get very crowded.
Each evening from 5pm to 10pm, Sisavangvong Road is transformed into a nightly market. Four rows of stalls are set up with vendors selling everything from clothing, artworks and handicrafts, to homemade rice whiskey and Lao tea/coffee. They are seemingly endless as you maneuver your way through the crowds of people and try your hand at bartering.
Towards the end of the markets, down a narrow side street behind the National Tourism Office, is the Night Food Market. Possibly my favourite food market in South East Asia, the food is local, cheap and plentiful! I opted for one of the buffets and got to fill a bowl with whatever I wanted for 15,000, that’s $1.75USD! Make sure you try some of the dumplings at the stall on the way out.
Without doubt one of the biggest tourist attractions in Luang Prabang is Kuang Si Waterfall. Layered pools of clear, azure blue water make their way down from the cascading, 60 meter high main waterfall. You can swim in most of these pools, though be warned the water is cool compared to the warm Laos climate. I was surprised with a free foot spa. If you remain still long enough the tiny fish that live here will come nibble on your feet. There are basic bathrooms and change room available as well as a restaurant. I would recommend buying any snacks at the markets by the entrance before entering the falls.
Halfway between the entrance and the falls is the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre. The rescue centre houses animals rescued from poachers and traffickers. Displays are set up to educate you on the life of bears in Laos and teach you about the rescue programs. You can walk along the raised viewing platform to see these bears for free. They just ask you to leave a donation if possible to support ‘Free The Bears’.
Located 23km or a 45 minute drive from the city, you can reach the falls by motorbike, tuk-tuk or on one of the mini busses departing Naluang Mini Bus Station daily. Access to the falls is open between 8am to 5:30pm and the entrance fee is around 20,000KIP.
My favourite and most memorable moment from Luang Prabang was giving alms to the monks. The longstanding tradition of giving alms, also called Sai Bat (Morning Alms), dates back as far as the 14th century. As monks are required to give up all conventional and materialistic things, such as money, they rely on their communities to provide for them. By giving and receiving alms both the locals and the monks are making merit and good karma which is an important part of Buddhism as it determines the quality of their next life. The most common foods given as alms are sticky rice and fresh fruits.
Every morning at 5:30am a procession of monks will walk through Luang Prabang, along the main streets and visit temples to collect alms. I put on my traditional Laos sash, which is a sign of respect for their culture, and joined the locals before sunrise. We sat on the bamboo mats that lined the main street as we waited for the procession. As the sun rose the line of monks began to pass and we placed handfuls of sticky rice in their bowls, which they would later take back to their monastery to share.
As this is a highly traditional and religious ceremony it is important to show respect. This means covering shoulders and legs, removing shoes and socks before taking your seat on the mats, taking care not to touch the monks when placing food in their bowls and remaining silent throughout the ceremony. For anyone wanting to just observe the ceremony it is important to keep at least a 5 meter distance between yourself and the monks and also ensure you keep your head lower than the monk’s. There was a number of tourists, you know the kind, standing in the middle of the street oblivious to the sanctity of this ancient tradition, taking away some of the authenticity. While photos are allowed, be sure to keep your distance and remember flash is not allowed. To take part in the giving of alms arrive early to buy some sticky rice from one of the locals and reserve your seat on the mats.
Situated in the heart of the Old Quarter is the Royal Palace Museum. Once home to the Laos Royal Family, today it has been converted into a museum which teaches about the history and culture of Laos. You can visit the residential quarters, royal palace car collection and the royal temple of Haw Pha Bang, home of Laos most sacred Buddha image and the city’s namesake, the Phra Bang Buddha.
For those traveling as part of an organized tour on the slow boats you may be given the chance to visit Tham Ting Caves on your way to Luang Prabang. The caves are also known as Pak Ou Caves due to it’s proximity to Pak Ou fishing village. Carved out of the cliff face, white stairs ascend into the lower of two caverns. Housed within these caves are over 4000 Buddha figures as well as shrines and stupas, making it a pilgrimage site for many Buddhists. During Lao New Year the Royal Family used to these caves to pour water over the sacred Buddha. It is said that during the 15th century the Animistic religion united with Buddhism here. These caves can also be reached on a day trip from Luang Prabang by traveling upriver for 1.5hrs, or alternatively travel by car to Pak Ou and make a short river crossing.
food & drink
Located along the Nam Khan River, under the cover of a large tree filled with lanterns and fairy lights is Brother House restaurant where we decided to eat on our first night. Serving a range of local dishes such as Laos BBQ, the prices are somewhere between cheap to average. Service was a little slow at times but the ambience made up for it.
In the middle of town is Novelty Café, a cozy café with walls lined with books and the occasional board game, offering brunches. We opted for one of their delicious baguettes and coffee, although they also have cocktails if that’s more your style. While the prices aren’t as cheap as you may expect in Laos, the quality is good. As well as offering speedy wifi, they also offer an extensive book exchange.
In my opinion, if you want great local food at amazing value, you really can’t beat the Night food markets as mentioned above.
In between the Nam Khan River and Phousi Hill, you will find Lao Lao Garden. Offering free pool, free wifi and free shots, Lonely Planet has described it as a Jungle Vegas. Their tiered beer garden complete with individual fire pits is the perfect place to start your night out in Luang Prabang.
Utopia is one of my favourite bars in Asia! An eclectic collection of motorbikes, plants and lanterns hang from the ceiling and strings of fairy lights guide you down to it’s waterside verandas. Remove your shoes, take a seat on the mats and enjoy running into every other traveler from the slow boats.
Due to Laos being a Buddhist nation you’ll find most bars/pubs close by midnight. However Luang Prabang has found something of a loop hole to satisfy their backpackers. After Utopia closed at 12AM we all made our way, via tuk tuk, to the Bowling Alley. Because this property is classified as a bowling alley and not as a bar, it is able to stay open later. It was absolutely packed with other travelers. They serve cheap beer or you can actually bowl. They also have archery outside, which is clearly a great mix with alcohol. This stop is not to be missed on a night out in Luang Prabang!
getting to luang prabang
Getting to Luang Prabang is easy. It is the second and final destination for anyone taking the slow boats or speed boats along the Mekong River from the Thai border. However it is also home to an International Airport which offers regular services to neighboring countries. Its’ two major bus stations, Northern and Southern, offer busses to most destinations in Laos.
WHERE TO STAY
Hostel dorm rooms are available from as low as $6USD per night, while basic hotel rooms start at around $20USD per night. These prices tend to vary based on location.
We stayed at Davita Boutique Hotel, a 3 star hotel centrally located about two blocks from the main street of Sisavangvong Road. Featuring white rooms with dark wooden accents and a large breakfast garden, rooms start at $50 p/night.
Sabai Sabai Hostel came highly recommended. Moderately priced from $10USD per night, pros include free breakfast, good wifi, a pool, individual reading lights and power sockets, security lockers and friendly staff that will go out of their way to help you. While they are located a little further out of town, they are still within 15-20 minutes walking distance from the main street.
