Most tourists will require a tourist card to enter Cuba. Many airlines will provide this with the flight, however this is not always the case. I flew with Aeromexico from Mexico City and I was required to purchase this at the Customer Assistance Centre nearby my gate for 361Mexican pesos, approximately $16USD. You are often required to show this tourist card at your casa particular and when purchasing bus tickets. 

Unlike most other countries you will travel too, hostels aren’t really a thing in Cuba. Instead the most popular form of accommodation are casa particulars. These are rooms or properties rented out by locals and are a great way to experience local life and travel Cuba on a budget. While there are plenty of hotels, as a general rule they are overpriced and outdated.

Casa particulars can be recognised by signs with what looks like an upside down blue anchor. There are red anchor signs as well which are specifically for Cuban travellers. It is possible to book a casa on arrival, however you risk there being no availability, or being taken advantage of by jinteros. These hustlers will act as a friend and lead you to accommodations where they will take a commission of their own, taking advantage of you as well as the local casa host. There are many sites which you can use to pre-book your casas. I used Airbnb for all of mine. Booking in advance guarantees you a better price and allows you to see reviews from other travellers. Using Airbnb I was also able to message my host in advance and let them know when I would be arriving. 

Traditional Cuban food is a mix of cultures that combines Spanish, African and Caribbean flavours and technique. Sadly due to strict food rationing, the best Cuban food is usually found outside of Cuba in places like Florida, USA. Years before I made it to Cuba, this is where I had my first taste of real Cuban cuisine, while traveling with my family in my uncle Frank’s hometown of Miami.

Food rationing was first introduced to Cuba in 1962 after the revolution. Cuban citizens are given a ration book, called la libreta, which ensures each household can only purchase an allotted amount of food. This applies to items such as rice, beans, sugar, eggs, etc. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Cuba entered what is known as the Special Period. Experiencing economic depression, this rationing became more severe. Cuba’s economy began to improve when they became trading partners with Venezuela and improved again when Russia’s Vladimir Putin visited in 2000 calling for the embargo to be lifted. In 2011 an economic reform allowed the once state-owned restaurants to be privatized, bringing more traditional flavours back to Cuban menus.

I visited Cuba a couple months after the government announced new rationing restrictions due to the intensifying US trade embargo. It still didn’t quite prepare me for the vacant convenience store shelves. I struggled to find even water some days, stocking up with 5 litre bottles when I found them. Most convenience stores offered snacks such as cookies or possibly chips if you were lucky.

Most casas include breakfast or offer it for an additional 5CUC. The breakfasts are so worth it! They were always enough for 2 people or 1 very hungry backpacker. Many casas will also offer to include dinner for $7-10CUC extra. It depends on the host but they usually consist of rice and beans with your choice of chicken or fish and plantains. With salt being the key to flavour, I enjoyed the home cooked meals. Most cities offer a selection of restaurants with meals ranging in price from 10CUC-25CUC. Often times most items on the menu were unavailable, so don’t get too excited. I decided one day after to treat myself to an Italian meal only to find that my first 5 choices were not available and leaving slightly heartbroken. Knowing that I couldn’t afford to dine out for every meal I packed things like muesli bars and biscuits. Fruit seemed to be readily available for sale in cities like Havana.

I managed to find local bakeries, known as panaderias, and most days this was my lunch/dinner. It always came to 1CUC, regardless of whether I bought 1 bun or 6. While it might not be ideal…or nutritious, there are ways for backpackers to keep food costs down in Cuba. 

Cuba uses two currencies, Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC) which is what all foreign tourists will use, and Cuban Pesos/Moneda Nacional (CUP) which is used by locals. Convertibles are generally exactly equal to the US dollar, whereas Cuban pesos are worth around $0.03USD. It is always important to check your change as some vendors try to give you pesos as change for convertibles.

Neither currencies are available outside Cuba so you will need to exchange your money once you arrive. There is a currency exchange place located on the first floor in the arrivals hall at Havana Airport with a good exchange rate.

During all my time in Cuba I never once saw an ATM and most businesses are cash only. You are able to exchange money at the banks, just make sure to bring your passport. I found Western Union to have a decent exchange rate. I would recommend bringing enough cash with you and exchanging at the airport and again at a bank if you need more.

To make sure you take enough cash it’s a good idea to work out a rough budget beforehand. To give you a very rough idea of costs, prices for basics start at the following:

– Casa Particulars – 15CUC+

– Breakfast at Casa Particulars – 5CUC

– Dinner at Casa Particulars – 7CUC+

– Meal in Restaurant – 10-20CUC

– Bottled Water from Store – (5L) 1.90CUC, (1.5L) 0.70CUC

– Bottled Water at Restaurants/Casas – (600ml) 1CUC, (1.5L) 1.50CUC

– Beer – 1.10CUC (tall can)

– Cuba Libres/Mojitos – 2.50CUC-5CUC

– Public Toilets – $0.10+/Tip

– Taxi’s – 1CUC per kilometre+

– Cigars from Farm/Street – (5 pack) 20CUC, (individual) 2CUC

– Individual Cigars from Store – (Cohiba) 13CUC, (Monte Carlo) 8.20CUC,

– Museums – 3-10CUC

It might also be worth noting that some credit cards won’t even work for online purchases inside Cuba. I’m not sure of the exact reason why this is but I was unable to book accommodation using my Mastercard or my Visa. 

During my time in Cuba I travelled between places mostly by bus and used collectivos a couple times. I can recommend both as great options to get around.

                                                                                                                                VIAZUL BUS 

Cuba’s main bus network is Viazul. Since I was there Cuba has experienced a fuel crisis and many bus services have been reduced.

Buying Tickets

You can buy your tickets directly at the station, although they can sometimes sell out days in advance. When buying in person, you can only buy tickets departing from the station you are physically at, no onward tickets. I would aim to book your onward ticket as soon as you arrive in each place to ensure there is room. On multiple occasions I went to book my bus in person only to have my name scribbled on a piece of paper. No payment, no receipt, no ticket. It always worked out for me luckily.

You can also purchase your tickets in advance, online at viazul.com, which is what I had done for a few tickets. In order to purchase tickets online you will need to register an account with them and include your passport details. There are a limited number of tickets available for sale online which are generally released around 30-45 days in advance, although they don’t always appear. You will need to book at least 7 days before you intend to travel. The website is relatively easy to use, providing the tickets are available. Once you have booked and paid you will receive an email with your reservation confirmation. You must print this out and take it with you to the terminal. Without this receipt you will not have a ticket. I never had any trouble with the tickets I purchased online.

Checking In

The Viazul website states that you must arrive 1 hour prior to departure for check in. From my experience check in generally didn’t open until 30 minutes prior, but better safe than sorry. When you arrive at the station you must go to the Viazul office and present your passport, along with your printed proof of payment if you pre-purchased your ticket online, to receive your boarding pass. You will then need to check your bag. The weight limit is 20kg. They will likely shove their tip box in your face and try to force you to tip them at least 1CUC. It is not mandatory but part of Cuban culture. Your bag will still make it if you choose not to tip.

Other Tips

Dress warm! Even though it may be a sweltering day outside, they blast the aircon on these busses!

Get in line to make sure you get a good seat! Despite your ticket having a seat number printed on it, no one follows this rule. To avoid being stuck in a broken seat, or stuck in the aisle without a seat at all like I was once, get in line early.

Carry small change with you. If your journey includes any bathroom stops you will be expected to pay for them. Often times they just request a tip of your choice, so it’s a good idea to have centavos with you. It’s also a good idea to take your own TP, as it is almost never provided.

                                                                                                                         COLLECTIVOS

Collectivos are shared taxis operating over long distances. They are often similar in price to the Viazul bus but offer the convenience of door to door service. They will only run if full, but I never had any trouble. I always arranged collectivos through my casa host. Although I’m sure I paid a little more it was worth it for the peace of mind and they were also able to confirm once it was full. It was a great way to see the country side and meet fellow travellers. Despite the one flat tyre, I highly recommend getting around Cuba this way.

                                                                                                                                 TRAIN

Cuba does have a railway system but all reports say that it is slow and unreliable. In the unlikely event that all busses are sold out and you don’t want a collectivo, the option is there to take a train. Most trains don’t operate daily so again you should try to book in advance once you arrive. Timetables are displayed at the stations. 

Drones are illegal in Cuba. If you enter Cuba with a drone the authorities will likely confiscate it. You are meant to be able to collect it upon exiting the country, however many travellers have reported being messed around and never receiving it back.

Count your change! Due to Cuba using two difference currencies, some vendors try to take advantage of tourists by taking convertibles and giving change in Cuban pesos, worth a fraction of convertibles. They both look very similar.