Havana
Arriving into Havana I was instantly met with the warm Caribbean air and vibrant colours of Cuba’s lively capital. With the rhythm of Cuban music filling the streets, colourful colonial buildings and lines of classic American cars everywhere I looked, it felt like stepping back in time. Full of style, culture and tumultuous history, Cuba’s capital was very much on my bucket list.
Central Havana is made up of 4 main neighbourhoods. Havana Veija (the Old Town), Havana Centro, Vedado and across the water the coastal neighbourhood of Havana Del Este. Here is my guide for Havana!
what to see in havana veija
Havana Veija is undoubtedly the tourist hub of Havana. Never the less its’ maze of cobblestone streets, colourful buildings and the constant sound of Cuban music makes it my favourite neighbourhood and the perfect place to base yourself. It is made up of four main squares and plenty of cafes, restaurants, salsa bars and museums.
Cathedral Square
Perhaps my favourite square in Havana, Cathedral Square sits in the north of Havana’s Old Town. Surrounded in stunning 18th century, baroque buildings, the focal point in undoubtedly the Havana Cathedral. Free to visit, it is one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas and once housed the remains of Christopher Columbus before they were moved to Spain.
Havana Cathedral Open 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri & 9am-12pm Sat-Sun | Free
Plaza de Armas
The Plaza de Armas is Havana’s oldest square, dating back to the 1520’s. Surrounded by cobblestone streets and 18th century buildings, this tree lined square is a great place to take a break from the heat and people watch. The statue in the park’s centre features Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, a Cuban revolutionary hero responsible for making the declaration of Cuban independence in 1868. The square is also home to cafes, a colonial art museum and several historic buildings including Casa de Lombillo and The Palace of the Marquess of Aguas Claras.
Plaza de San Francisco
Sitting across from Havana’s cruise terminal, this larger cobblestone square dates back to 1500’s when the Spanish navy used it as a port of call. Along the southern edge of the square sits the Church and Monastery of San Francisco de Asis and belltower which now houses the Museum of Religious Art. Out front the church you can find this statue of El Caballero de Paris (The Gentleman of Paris), a well known public figure during the 1940-50’s who roamed the streets greeting people and discussing philosophy, religion and politics. Along the western side are a couple cafes, ice-cream stands and a souvenir store. One block from San Francisco Square you will find Diana of Wales Garden. A small, gates garden with some shaded benches and an ETECSA hot spot. A perfect place to escape the crowds of tourists and the unrelenting heat.
Plaza Vieja
Old square, once known as New Square and Market Square, is today surrounded by cafes, restaurants and bars. The focal points are a large fenced off fountain and a mysterious sculpture of a naked women riding a giant rooster and holding a huge fork. The sculpture, by a Cuban artist, is called Fantastic Journey and has no official explanation so make of it as you will. What stood out to me most of all in Old Square was the different types of architecture that seemed to blend perfectly together.
Rum Museum
An unmissable stop while in Havana is the Havana Club Rum Museum. The tour guide will take you through the history of Havana Rum. From the introduction of sugar cane into Cuba by Christopher Columbus in 1493, through the 1800’s when Cuba was the world’s largest exporter of sugar to the present day where Havana Rum is sold in over 120 countries around the world. The tour ends with a tasting before you exit through the gift shop where you can purchase bottles from 40-1700CUC! You can choose to stay and enjoy a cuba libre at the museum bar for 4CUC.
Museum Open Mon-Thurs 9am-5pm & Fri-Sun 9am-4pm | Havana Club Bar Open Mon-Sun 9am-9pm | Guided Tour Only, 7CUC
Museo de la Ciudad
Havana’s City Museum, also known as Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, is located along the Western edge of Plaza de Armas. Once home to the Spanish captains general, it has since housed the US military governors before becoming a presidential palace. Today the museum houses artifacts, old furniture and vintage horse drawn carriages. I personally love antiques, but if this isn’t for you the building itself, with its’ palm filled courtyard, marble statues and stone columns is beautiful to wander through. There is also an art gallery here featuring artworks of Cuban artists. There are local women, chasing tips, who offer information on the individual rooms and items, but I found most things to be fairly self-explanatory.
Open 9:30am-6pm | Price: 3CUC
Castillo de la Real Fuerza
North of Plaza de Armas and surrounded by a moat, the Castle of the Royal Force is one of the oldest forts in the Americas. Today it houses the Navigation Museum. A top one of the towers you may recognise one of Havana’s oldest symbols. Since 1632 the bronze figure called, La Giraldilla, has watched over Havana. She is also the figure featured on Havana Club Rum bottles.
Museo de la Farmacia Habanera
If you happen to be passing by, I think it’s worth at least popping your head into Havana Pharmacy. Intricately carved wooden panels, ceramic jars and painted glass makes it feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Today it operates as both a pharmacy as well as a small museum. It’s free to enter, though they will encourage tipping.
Open Everday 9am-5pm
Walking Streets
While most of Havana Veija is pedestrian friendly there are a couple streets well worth a walk while finding your way through the maze of the old town. Calle Obispo (Bishops Street), Havana’s busiest street, runs straight through the Old Town from Plaza de Armas to Central Park. Lined with souvenir stores, restaurants and notable buildings such as Ambos Mundos, where Ernest Hemmingway stayed. Intersecting with Obispo is Calle Mercaderes (Market Street) which runs along to Plaza Veija. It is home to souvenir shops, workshops and several small, free museums including Museo de Simon Bolivar and Museo del Tobaco.
what to see in havana centro
Havana Centro gives you a taste of local life in Havana. I passed kids playing in the street and men working on their vintage cars. While the buildings seemed to be in more decay than in the old town, this neighbourhood had it’s own kind of charm.
The Malecon
This iconic seafront walkway runs the length of Havana Centro and Vedado, alongside a 6-lane motorway. My walk along this corroding seafront in middle of Havana’s summer had me wanting to jump into the inviting clear, blue Carribbean water. If you’re not on the strict backpacker budget that I was, this journey would be equally as scenic traveling in a classic car. Pass by the colourful buildings all at various stages of degeneration, locals fishing or meeting up with friends. Or perhaps wander down here to enjoy a sunset.
Capitolio
The Capitol building marks Havana’s
centre point. Resembling something in between Washington DC’s capitol and
Paris’ Pantheon, this grandiose building was designed by Cuban architects and
built between 1926-29. Once the house of Cuban congress, it is now on course to
becoming the National Assembly. The building has undergone restoration over the
last few years but if you’re fortunate enough it is possible to purchase
tickets to tour the building. Inside there is a bronze statue called La
Republica and at it’s feet is a replica 24-carat diamond which marks kilometer
zero of Cuba’s highway systems. I was not so lucky, but even passing by the
Capitolio as you walk down Paseo del Prado is well worth it.
Gran Teatro
While staying in Canada my Aunt & Uncle took me to watch an Imax movie on Cuba and it heavily featured the Gran Teatro. It was featured for both it’s stunning architecture and for it’s prominence as the home of Cuban ballet. It was even more impressive in real life. After a long restoration the theatre reopened in 2016. You can purchase guided tours of the theatre at the box office.
Central Park
Alongside El Prado, between the Gran Teatro and the National Fine Arts Museum, is Central Park. Surrounded by palms is a marble monument to national hero, Jose Marti. Sit and admire the vintage cars that pull in and out of the busy centre road car parks or jump on the Havana Bus Tour which departs from the east side of the park. You will also find an ETECA hotspot here.
Museo de la Revolution
I highly recommend this museum to anyone unfamiliar with Che Guevara and the Cuban Revolution. Bags and water bottles must be checked before you make your way up the staircase and through the non-air-conditioned rooms of the museum. While many of the artifacts, which include propaganda as well as belongings of Che Guevara, Castillo Cienguegos and Fidel Castro, offer only Spanish explanations, there are plenty of large write ups detailing in English the events of the revolution. The building itself, which was once used as the presidential palace, was decorated by Tiffany’s and features beautifully painted ceilings, Behind the building is a display of vehicles including jeeps, tanks, a plane as well as the Granma Yacht which Fidel Castro used to sail from Mexico to Cuba in 1956 to overthrow Batista.
El Prado
Dividing Hanava Veija and Havana Centro, Paseo Marti, commonly known as El Prado is a wide, tree-lined boulevard. A great place to sit and people watch or to stroll past the colourful, decaying buildings.
Castillo de la Punta
This castle is the perfect place to start your walk along the Malecon. There is a small museum inside, however I recommend it for its views across the water to Morro Castle and stretching down along the Malecon.
China Town Gate
Like most cities these days Havana also has a China Town, or at least a China Town gate. Seemingly out of place among the deteriorating, neoclassical buildings and classic American cars. It is only around the corner from the Capitolio for those who care to explore a little further.
what to see in vedado
Vedado is a residential district in central Havana. Home of the wealthy in the early 1900’s, by the 50’s Vedado was a cosmopolitan capital and a commercial hub, home to the city’s best hotels. These days many of the neighbourhood’s buildings are deteriorating. I stayed here on my return to Havana, on the way out of Cuba as this is where the Viazul Bus Terminal is located and it’s a shorter taxi ride to the airport.
Che Guevara Mural
From the Plaza de la Revolution, you will see one of Cuba’s best-known artworks, the Che Guevara mural. Featured on the side of the Ministry of Interior building, the steel mural reads ‘Hasta la Victoria Siempre’ meaning Always Toward Victory. The next block over you will find the mural of Camilo Cienfuegos which reads ‘Vas Bien Fidel’ meaning You’re Going Well Fidel. The sides of the square are home to the National Theatre as well as the National Library.
Jose Marti Memorial
Along the
south side of the Plaza de le Revolution is the Jose Marti Memorial. The
monument is the tallest structure in Havana and features an observation deck
from which you can view Havana. At the base of the tower is a museum dedicated
to the life of Jose Marti. Behind the memorial sits the Palace of the
Revolution, the seat of Cuba’s government. The area is heavily guarded by
military, which was a little intimidating, especially when I accidentally
walked to the wrong entrance.
Colon Cemetery
One of the largest cemeteries in the Americas, the Necropolis Cristobal Colon is the final resting place of many notable Cubans. It dates back to 1876 and is named after Christopher Columbus. Spanning over 140 acres, giant headstones, marble statues and mausoleums make up over 800,000 graves. Because the space has become so valuable some people choose to be buried here for only 3 years before being dug up and moved to a storage building in order to make room for new bodies. Among the notable graves is legendary La Milagrosa (The Miraculous). Amelia Goyri died during childbirth along with her newborn son and the two were buried here. Her husband did not accept their deaths and used to visit multiple times a day and use his ring to knock 3 times to wake the pair. Years later when the bodied were exhumed the bodies were still intact and the baby, who had been buried at her feet, was wrapped in her arms. The tomb was resealed, she became known as La Milagrosa and has since been an important symbol of the Santeria religion throughout Cuba. Some people have reported maps of notable graves being sold at the entrance. Foreign tourists can only enter through the North Main Gate, also known as the Peace Gate.
Hotel Nacional
Nearby the Vedado end of the Malecon, is one of Havana’s iconic buildings, Hotel Nacional. The national monument is full of history and many notable people have stayed here including Winston Churchill, Ernest Hemmingway, Walt Disney and Frank Sinatra. Built back in 1930 based on The Breakers Hotel in Florida, it was under American operation until 1959 during Cuban Revolution. Some of the notable events include The Battle of the Hotel Nacional in 1933 when 300 officers took refuge inside the hotel before being assassinated as Batista came into power. In 1946 the Havana Conference took place when it hosted the largest ever gathering of the North American mafia, an event which also features in the movie The Godfather II. The hotel was also used as Fidel Castro’s headquarters in 1962 during the Cuban Missile Crisis. There are also rumours of ghosts in the hotel, anyone who knows me knows I love a good ghost story. Legend has it that back when Christopher Columbus first arrived the area was home to a Forbidden Forrest. If a person was found here after dark the punishment was a piece of their soul. The Hotel Nacional is built on this area. Other stories include celebrities such as Jude Law encountering Frank Sinatra’s ghost in his hotel room.
Wood panelled ceilings, chandeliers and brass fixtures welcome you into the lobby. You can visit the lobby and the gardens yourself or the hotel offers free (tip based) historical tours Monday to Saturday at 10am. Beneath the hotel gardens are several tunnels which you can explore. The tunnels were created when the Santa Clara Battery was constructed on the site in 1797 but in more recent history the tunnels were used during the Cuban Missile Crisis in order to spy on the Americans. There is also a Parisien Caberet for those on more than a backpacker budget. If you’re in the area it’s a nice spot to stop in and take advantage of the aircon and ETECSA hot spot.
what to see in havana del este
Across the water from Havana Vieja and known best for it’s beaches, is Havana del Este. Aside from the beaches some of Havana’s biggest attractions sits along the western coastline of this neighbourhood.
Fortaleza
On the far western edge of Havana del Este and visible from the old town is Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, known simply at Fortaleza. Built between 1763 and 1774 by the Spanish after an British forces invaded the city, the fort served as a prison before becoming the Che Guevara’s headquarters after the revolution. There are several museums within its walls including Che Guevara’s Headquarters, Museum of Arms and the Fortress Museum. Every night the fortress hosts a gunshot ceremony were actors re-enact firing a canon over the water. The loud gunshot can be heard from all over Havana Veija. To get here you can ride in an old American classic taxi. Prices started at 15CUC from the Old Town but I bartered down to 5CUC. You could also take the T3 route on the hop on hop off bus or try out the ferry and walk uphill through Casablanca.
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Del Morro
The fort dates back to 1589 and was used to protect Havana from pirates and other invaders. Today it houses the Maritime Museum. You can see it’s defence walls and iconic lighthouse from Havana’s Old Town.
Christ of Havana
In Cassablanca a 20 meter high, Carrara marble statue of Christ looks down over the Havana harbour. Inaugurated on Christmas Day in 1958 and declared a national monument in 2017, it offers views over Havana Veija and the bay. Locals joke that the Christ is holding a cigar in one hand and a mojito in the other.
Where to stay in havana
El Balcon, Plaza de Armas (Calle O’Reilly, Havana Veija)
This was my first stop in Cuba and my first casa particular and I cannot recommend it enough! You couldn’t ask for a better location. El Balcon is literally on the corner of Plaza de Armas which I could see from my balcony that overlooked the beautiful City Museum building. My host Liliana came to find me in the street after my taxi had dropped me a couple blocks in the wrong direction. Her and her lovely husband and daughter were such great hosts and welcomed me into their home. The room, which accommodates up to 2 people, had high ceilings, a double bed, private ensuite and personal balcony. I had my own air conditioner and to my surprise they had their own modem so I could actually connect to wifi from my room! The included breakfasts were delicious and filling (enough to feed two people or one very hungry backpacker), her croquettes were amazing. For 7CUC she also cooked me dinner one night. She didn’t speak any English but was very patient and happy to use my google translate app to communicate. She was extremely helpful in taking me to an ETECSA office, organising my taxi to the Viazul station and showing me pictures of local attractions. After a day exploring Havana, it didn’t get a whole lot better than relaxing on the balcony and listening to the salsa music from the streets below. I found this casa on Airbnb for just $18USD per night.
Casa Jorge & Elis (Calle Lugareno, Vedado)
I stumbled upon this place by accident after the casa I booked had a plumbing problem and the host showed me to Jorge & Elis’ casa a couple blocks away. Located in central Vedado, nearby the Viazul bus terminal, they offer a spacious double bed room with air-conditioning, mini fridge and shared bathroom. They were a lovely family and spoke a little English. Breakfast was an additional 5CUC. They arranged a taxi to the airport for me for 20CUC. The casa is just around the corner from a small park with an ETECSA hotspot, but it rarely worked. I booked the original hostel, Casa Oralia, for $14USD on Airbnb.
getting to and around havana
Havana Airport
Havana Airport, also known as Jose Marti International Airport (HAV), is about a 30-40 minute drive from Havana’s Old Town. On arrival I made sure to exchange some money into CUC at the money exchange on the first floor before I looked for a taxi. There is no public transport to/from the airport so a taxi is your only option. The man at the information desk in the arrivals hall referred me to his friend who quoted me 40CUC to take me to my casa, using the late hour as an excuse for the high price. Knowing it was far more expensive than it should be I walked out of the terminal and almost instantly found a Cubataxi for 25CUC.
Havana Viazul
The Viazul Bus Terminal, located in Vedado, has busses running to most cities in Cuba. Upon entering the terminal turn left and you’ll find the air conditioned, Viazul office. Everything I read said to arrive at least 1 hour early which was more than enough time as the staff did not arrive until 30 minutes prior. A taxi organised by my casa host cost 15CUC from Havana Veija to the terminal, though I imagine you could barter this down a little.
Collectivo
If the bus isn’t for you, a Collectivo is a great way to travel around Cuba. I found the best way to organize a ride, especially if you lack Spanish, was through my casa hosts. Of course you may pay a little more as they will earn their bit of commission, but it’s reliable and the price you pay for peace of mind. Alternatively you could talk to drivers in the street. Collectivos will need a minimum number of passengers to run and this is something your casa host can reconfirm for you.
Train
Cuba does have a train system but all reports said that it is slow and unreliable. I never tried it out but if you’re interested, or if busses are fully booked, head to the Central Train Station at the southern corner of Havana Veija (800m from the Capitolio and 1.8km from Plaza de Armas). As most trains don’t operate daily, make sure you give yourself plenty of time and head to the station to check the timetable in advance.
Local Bus
Havana does have a local bus system which operates 17 different routes. There is also the hop on hop off Havana Bus Tour which departs from Central Park and costs 10CUC for the day. The HOHO runs about every 30 minutes from 9am to 7pm and has 2 routes. T1 which runs west from Plaza Central, through Havana Centro, along the Malecon and into Vedado. While the T3 runs east from Central Park, through the tunnel and across to Fortaleza and to various beach hotels along Playa del Este.
Ferries
Ferries operate from Emboque de Luz ferry terminal in Havana’s old town across the harbour to the neighbourhoods of Cassablanca and Regla. They start at 4:45am and run until 11:45pm and run every 15-30 minutes throughout the day. Locals only pay around 40CUP, but for foreigners they usually charge 1CUC. From the Cassablanca ferry terminal it is possible to walk to the Christ of Havana and the Fortaleza.
Taxis
One word I most certainly was sick of hearing by the time I left Cuba (although this goes for so many places) was taxi. You do not have to go far at all to find yourself a ride in one of Cuba’s emblematic classic American cars. In the Old Town many drivers will offer you a “city tour” for around 25CUC where they will take you to several attractions around the city.
where to eat and drink
La Bodeguita del Medio
Located just around the corner from Havana Veija’s Plaza de la Catedral is Havana’s best known bar La Bodeguita del Medio. It has gained notoriety as being one of Ernest Hemmingways favourite bars and has since been visited by many famous figures whose signatures cover the walls. This crowded bar is definitely a tourist trap but with live Cuban music the atmosphere makes it worth at least a look, even if you don’t stay for an overpriced mojito.
Dos Hermanos
Situated by the Havana docks, nearby the Rum Museum is Dos Hermanos. This bar, like others in Havana is known for it celebrity clientele. Of course this includes Ernest Hemmingway and also actors Errol Flynn and Marlon Brando. You can enjoy a Cuba Libre for 4CUC here.
I struggled to find anything resembling a grocery store in Havana. As a backpacker on a tight budget I hadn’t planned on dining out for every meal. Although far from exciting, the following are a couple places I found which managed to saved me money. Wandering by the corner of San Ignacio and Sol I found Casa del Agua. A store selling only Ciego Montero bottled water for as cheap as 1.90CUC for 5 litres. This is in comparison to take away shops on the main walking streets who sell the same thing for over double the price. Further south along San Ignacio is Panaderia El Comercio, a bakery, where the lady sold me 3 fresh bread rolls for 1CUC. As time went on I found that regardless of what I ordered from bakeries around Cuba, it always came to 1CUC. There are also some locals who sell fresh fruit and vege on the streets.
etecsa locations in havana
You can purchase ETECSA wifi cards at
the ETECSA building on Calle Obispo for 1CUC per hour. My casa host took me to
another location, on San Ignacio, just after your turn off Calle O’Reilly where
they sold ETECSA cards for 2CUC per hour.
Wifi Hotspots are easy to find by
searching ‘ETECSA’ on the Maps.me app. But a few of my tried and tested
hotspots include The Diana of Wales Garden, just behind Plaza San Francisco.
This quiet garden provides shaded benches to sit and reconnect to the outside
world. On Calle Tejadillo, just outside the well known La Bodeguita del Medio
bar, there is a hotspot which you can use from the middle of the street. If you
just want to send off a few quick messages, it’s a nice place where you can
still enjoy the hustle and bustle of Havana’s busy streets. Inside the lobby at
Hotel Nacional you can take a seat on one of the mahogany benches, in the
historic and air conditioned building and connect.
havana scams
Many people talk about Cuba as being undiscovered and new to tourism. While it is certainly a unique destination, they are well aware that they are a tourist destination and as such you can expect to find the usual scams.
The Buena Vista Social Club Concert
Walking through Havana Veija, I was approached by a local man asking where I was from. He insisted that he was just a friendly local who was proud of his city and wanted to offer local reccomendations. He told me about a concert that was on that I shouldn’t miss and told me he would show me where it was happening. He was the second person to tell me about a concert, the first being a musician who said he’d be playing in it and left without harassing me. Cautious but curious, I walked with my new local friend through the busy Havana streets until we reached a building, the Sociedad Cultural Rosalia de Castro where the free public concert I’d imagined in my head turned out to be a 50CUC Buena Vista Social Club performance. When I explained I wasn’t interested this is when he began harassing me for money. Since then I’ve read about many people who had the same thing happen to them or who had tickets pushed on them by their casa hosts. Many report false advertising, bad food and overpriced drinks.
Knock Off Cigars, Rum & Coffee
I don’t think a day went by while I was in Havana where I didn’t encounter locals offering me discounted cigars, rum and coffee. This happens particularly in the Old Town. The products are usually poor quality knock offs.
