Tallinn
From the moment I stepped foot inside the Old Town walls I fell madly in love with Tallinn. With the best preserved medieval fortifications in Europe, it genuinely felt like stepping back in time, at least until the hoards of tourists poured into the cobbled streets. The Old Town is surrounded by modern neighbourhoods with green parks, shopping opportunities and restaurants. An absolute must for anyone visiting the Baltics.
What To See In Tallinn
Town Hall Square
I began my exploration of Tallinn here, in the heart of the Old Town. The Square is named after the Raekoda, Town Hall building, which is the oldest city hall in Northern Europe, dating back to 1404. It is also the only preserved Gothic Town Hall in Europe. In Summer you can visit the Town Hall tower, sitting 34 meters above Old Town. If you look closely on top of the spire you may spot Old Thomas, a weathervane which over the years has become a symbol of Tallinn. Town hall is open to visitors July and August, Monday to Saturday 10am-4pm and entry costs €5.
The square hosts many events and during my summer visit it hosted a large market. It is particularly known for its Christmas market. The square is also home to Raeapteek, the Town Hall Pharmacy, which opened in 1422 and is the oldest continuously running pharmacy in Europe
Tallinn’s Fortifications
Tallinn’s city walls are one of the best preserved medieval fortifications in Europe with 1.9km of the original city wall, 26 towers and 2 gates still remaining. Building began in 1265 and by the 1500’s the city walls were 2.4km long, around 14 to 16 metres high by 3 metres thick with 46 defense towers. There are several options for exploring these old city walls.
Running between Nunna, Sauna & Kuldjala Towers, this part of the city’s fortifications are open to visitors from Friday-Wednesday 11am-6pm for a €2 entry fee.
Possibly one of the most iconic images of Tallinn are the Viru Gates. Two remaining defense towers stand either side of Viru Street one of Tallinn’s busiest pedestrian thoroughfares.
Fat Margaret Tower, at the Great Coastal Gate entrance to the Old Town, is a large artillery tower 25 metres in diameter with walls up to 5.1 metres thick. Today it houses the Estonian Maritime Museum which is open Tuesday to Sunday 10am-6pm and costs €10.
Kiek in de Kök is a fortification museum stretching 500 metres along the city walls, between Toompea Hill and the Lower Town, that takes visitors through Tallinn’s history. The museum consists of the artillery tower, the Bastion passages which run underground beneath Toompea Hill, the carved stone museum, the Maiden’s Tower which houses a café along the city walls, the Stable Tower (Tallitorn) and the Short Leg Gate Tower (Lühikese jala väravatorn). The Short Leg Gate Tower, which separates Toompea Hill and the Lower Town, is one of the most haunted places in Tallinn! Located right next to the Danish King’s Garden which was once a duelling ground, there are reports of a man singing as well as sightings of an executed monk, a lion and even a ship floating through the tower walls. You can visit the museum for €14 Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm and until 8pm on Thursdays. Download the NUMU app in advance for an audio guide of the museum.
Nearby St. Catherine’s Passage, along Müürivahe, is the Hellemann Tower. Dating back to 1300’s it once served as a prison but today you can climb its’ 3 story tower and visit part of the city walls. It’s open everyday 11am-5pm and entry is €4.
St. Catherine’s Passage
This medieval walkway, also referred to as Katarina Käik and Monk’s Alley, connects Vene and Müürivahe streets in Tallinn’s Old Town. It is named after St. Catherine’s Church, the remains of which are at the north entrance of the passage. Tombstones from the church belonging to the magistrate of Tallinn, the Brotherhood of the Blackheads and The Great Guild still line one of the walls. My eyes were immediately drawn to the large arches that once supported the walls of the church. The courtyard houses renaissance buildings, now cafes and restaurants as well as artisan workshops which make up the St. Catherine’s Guild. The guild, founded in 1995, is an organization made up of 8 studios where you can watch the artists creating ceramics, glass, leatherwork, jewellery, etc.
Master’s Courtyard
Located next to St Catherine’s Passage is Master’s Courtyard. Considered by locals to be one of the most gorgeous courtyards in Tallinn it dates back to 13th century. There is the well-known Café Chocolaterie as well as a guest house and some more artisan workshops.
St Olav’s Church
Don’t miss a visit to St Olav’s Church and tower! Dating back to the 13th century, it was once the tallest building in the world between 1549 and 1625. After being struck by lightning and completely burning down 3 separate times, the church was rebuilt in 1830. Between April and October you can make the climb up the 124 meter gothic tower for amazing 360 degree views over Tallinn. There is a law that no building in Tallinn can be higher than St Olav’s. The church is free to enter and the tower cost €3.
Toompea Hill
Tallinn’s Old Town was once divided into two separate areas, the Lower Town and Toompea Hill. Built on the site of a fortress which was originally constructed in 1227-29 by the German Knights of the Sword, is Toompea Castle. It is the seat of power in Estonia and today houses the Estonian House of Parliament. You can visit the castle on a free guided tour between Monday to Friday but be sure to book in advance. Behind Toompea Castle is a secret courtyard known as Pilsticker Tower. It is known to locals and the odd tourist that gets lost. While in Toompea Hill make sure you visit the Patkuli as well as Kohtu viewing platforms for stunning views over the Old Town.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Atop Toompea Hill is the Russian Orthodox, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was build back in 1900 when Tallinn was part of the Russian Empire and it is now considered an architectural jewel. The bells can be heard ringing through the Old Town before each service.
Tornide Square
As the name suggests, Tower Square sits along the Old Town wall and its’ towers. It’s a large green space where you can escape the busy cobblestone roads, while still enjoying the medieval charm of Tallinn. Each year the square hosts the International Tallinn Flower Festival which my visit coincided with.
Ukrainian Church
Located directly behind the city walls along Laboratooriumi Street is a small Ukrainian Church named the Three Handed Mother of God Church. It’s free to enter the small church and see their collection of painted eggs. They also run tours which include the church, a Ukrainian Cultural Centre School and a labora workshop where you will learn about letterpress printing, papermaking and calligraphy. Outside the church is a box where you can write down your prayer on a piece of paper and give them to the Mother of God.
Freedom Square
This large square on the southwestern edge of Old Town is home to the monument to the War of Independence. Here you will also find preserved parts of the old city gates encased in glass by Harju street as well as St John’s Church which dates back to 1867.
Borsi Passage
Borsi Passage, also known as the Stock Exchange Passage, is a 70 metre long walkway showcasing a timeline of Estonia’s history on it’s pavement. It was once part of the Great Guild Courtyard but today it is a pedestrian street that connects Pikk & Lai Street. Located right next door the Gothic style Great Guild Hall dates back to 1410. The guild was an association of Hanseatic merchants, part of the Hanseatic League which was a confederation of merchant guilds across Northwestern and Central Europe between 13th and 15th century. In the 19th century the building became known as the stock exchange. It now houses the Estonian History Museum which is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-6pm and costs €8.
Roof of Linnahall
Located just East of the Old Town is Linnahall. It was originally built by the Soviets in 1980 to host the Olympic regatta events before being used as a defense against the Finns were they to invade. Today you can visit the rooftop for skyline views of Tallinn.
Balti Jaam Market
The Balti Jaam Markets, or Baltic Station Markets, is located just north of the Old Town city walls. Here you will find cafes, food stalls as well as stands selling clothes, memorabilia and fresh fruit and vegies.
KGB Museum
Located on the top floor of the Soviet built Hotel Viru is the KGB Museum. When the Soviets fled Estonia in the 90’s locals discovered high tech listening equipment set up on the top floor. The museum takes you back to Soviet times and the history of the hotel. You can visit the museum by guided tour only Tuesday to Sunday for €11.
Kadriorg Park
A short tram ride from Tallinn’s Old Town will take you to Kadriorg Park. The 70 hectare park was commissioned back in 1718 by Peter I as part of the palace estate. Today it is full of water features and colourful gardens. Kadriorg Palace is the main attraction in the park and also houses Kadriorg Art Museum. You can visit the palace Tuesday to Sunday 10am-6pm and until 8pm on Thursdays for €8.
The park also houses other museums including the KUMU (Estonian Art Museum), Mikkel Museum and the Peter The Great Museum which is located in the house Peter I stayed in during his visits to Tallinn before building the palace. Kadriorg Park is also home to the Presidential Palace. This pink building is the office and residence of the Estonian president. While the property is closed to visitors you can still look through the gates. In September the park hosts the Wandering Lights Festival where local and international artists create light displays throughout the grounds.
Russalka
This monument is dedicated to the 177 men that lost their lives when the Russian military ship, Russalka, sank on it’s way to Helsinki in 1893. The memorial is located in a park overlooking the Baltic Sea where you can wander down to the beach and watch as the cruise ships dock into the harbour.
Where To Eat & Drink In Tallinn
Maiasmokk Café
Opening in 1864 Maiasmokk Café is the oldest café in Tallinn. They serve a range of cakes and pastries and also house a Marzipan Museum. Legend has it that Tallinn was the birthplace of marzipan, using it in the middle ages as a remedy for lovesickness.
III Draakon
The Third Dragon is a medieval tavern located directly beneath Tallinn’s Town Hall where you can find soups, pastries and of course beer and wine. Small and often crowded, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time when you enter the candle lit room complete with costumed tavern wenches. Food and drink range between €1-10 and they offer free pickles for customers willing to fish one out of the wooden cask. Tavern rules include the tavern frump is always right, starting a song and toasting is held in high honour and slurping soup from your bowl is considered good manners. You must at least pop your head in while visiting Tallinn!
Where To Stay In Tallinn
The main attraction in Tallinn is its’ Old Town, one of the best preserved in the world. Surrounded by a medieval city wall and red topped towers, it is a charming maze of cobblestone streets and costumed locals where you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. I tried to base myself as close to the Old Town as I could.
The city centre of Tallinn is located directly next to the Old Town and is a mix of old meets new. The Rotterdam Quarter here is an area where architects have transformed old factories into modern buildings which now house some of Tallinn’s best restaurants and shopping.
A short tram ride from the Old Town is the Kadriorg Neighbourhood. Full of gorgeous 19th and 20th century wooden houses these tree lined residential streets are amid green parklands and trendy cafes.
Kalamaja, just past the northwestern edge of the Old Town, is a recently transformed neighbourhood containing boutique shops, coffee houses, restaurants and wine bars. It is also home to the Telliskivi Creative City which was once an old factory complex, now full of local shops, restaurants and bars.
The neighbourhood of Pirita is a 30 minute bus ride from the Old Town. Ruins of an old monastery, Botanic Gardens, Olympic village and the Tallinn TV Tower sit nearby 2km of sandy beach.
Monk’s Bunk
The Monk’s Bunk is Tallinn’s party hostel. With cheap dorm beds from €12 per night it is located just outside the southwestern walls of the Old Town. Although each bed does not have its own powerpoint or light, and the individual lockers are far too small for large backpacks, the hostel does has a fully equipped kitchen as well as a hostel bar with a great social atmosphere. From Wednesday to Saturday they organize the Mad Monk’s Pub Crawl. For €15 they include unlimited beer and cider at the hostel bar, free shots around town and entry into Tallinn’s biggest nightclub. Overall you can’t beat the price and location!
Getting To & Around Tallinn
Situated in between Scandinavia, Central Europe and Russia, Tallinn is easily reachable by plane, train, bus or ferry.
By Plane
Tallinn’s Lennart Meri Airport (TLL) is the main airport in Estonia. From here you can connect with domestic flights to Tartu, Rohnu, Kardla and Kuressaare. The airport is located just 10 minute’s drive from the Old Town. It can also be reached in 25 minutes on tram number 4.
By Sea
Travelling from Helsinki, I opted to take the ferry. Several ferry companies, including Eckerö Line, Tallink and Viking Line make this short 2 ½ hour journey daily but be sure to book in advance as prices are subject to change. This can be booked online at directferries.com.uk for a comparrision of ferry times and prices or direct on the ferry companies websites. Tallink also operated ferries between Stockholm Sweden and Tallinn, while St Peter Line runs ferries between St Petersburg and Tallinn. Several cruise lines also visit the Port of Tallinn, which is located less than 2km from the Old Town.
Train
International trains run direct between Tallinn and Russia. They also connect Tallinn to the rest of Europe via Riga, Latvia. Estonia’s domestic trains are operated by Elron and connect Tallinn to most parts of the country. Tallinn’s main train station, also known as Balti Jaam, is located just outside the north-western wall of the Old Town.
Bus
International buses link Tallinn to many European cities. The station is located about 2km from the Old Town and contains an R-kiosk convenience store, café and ATM.
Public Transport
Upon arrival it is very easy to get around using public transport. Tallinn’s network consists of buses, trams and trolleys that operate between 6am and 11pm. You can purchase three types of tickets; paper ticket, smart card or a Tallinncard. Paper tickets are issued onboard and are €2 per journey. The smart card can be purchased for a €2 deposit which is refundable within the first six months of activation. This is the best value option if you plan to use public transport three or more times in a day or are staying for an extended period of time. This allows you to purchase one hour tickets for as little as €1.10, one day tickets for €5 or multi-day tickets €5 for three days, €6 for five days or even 30 days for €23. The Tallinncard is a sightseeing pass that allows you free public transport, access to over 40 attractions, access to the hop on hop off bus as well as several other discounts. You can purchase it online or from the Information Centre.
Hop On Hop Off Bus
Tallinn has two different Hop On Hop Off buses. One by Tallinn City Tour which runs everyday 10am-5pm and costs €25 per adult. This bus has 18 different stops and your ticket is valid for 24 hours. The other HOHO option is with City Sightseeing which runs Friday through to Monday from 10:45am to 3:45pm and operates 2 different routes covering 18 stops. Their red loop takes in the Old Town, the Harbour and Kadriorg Park and takes around 50 minutes in full. While their green loop heads to the neighbourhood of Pirita and the Seaplane Harbour Museum taking 75 minutes in full. They give you the option to purchase 1 or 3 day passes starting at €25 per adult. Personally I found Tallinn was super easy to explore by foot and using public transport.
