Cusco
One of my absolute favorite cities, Cusco is a charming blend of ancient culture and traditions mixed with cobblestone streets and Spanish colonial architecture. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is the oldest living city in the Americas. The name Cusco in Quechua means “naval of the world” and it is named so for being the centre and capital of the Incan Empire, also called Tawantinsuyu (Land of Four Quarters).
The city, surrounded by the stunning Andes Mountain Range, is the starting point for the famous Inca Trail that leads to Machu Pichu. Be sure to give yourself plenty of time to explore this historic capital and all the surrounding wonders it has to offer.
A Brief History of Cusco
There are many different versions of how the Incan Empire began. One legend tells of the first Inca, Manco Capac and his wife Mama Ocllo, who were believed to be the children of the sun god Inti. It is said they were raised up from Lake Titicaca and were sent in search of the centre of the world where they were to start a new civilization. One of the legends say that Inti gave Manco Capac a golden rod and told him that when his rod sank into the ground he will have found the place he was looking for, the “naval of the earth”, or “Qosq’o” in Quechua language. When they reached Cusco and the rod sank, they settled here and thus the Incan Empire began.
In the 15th century the empire grew significantly under the rule of the ninth Inca King, Yupanqui also known as Pachacutec (Transformer of the Earth), and covered most of Peru as well as parts of Bolivia, Ecuador and Chile. It is said that Pachacutec designed the city of Cusco in the shape of a Puma with Sacaywaman Temple as its’ head and the two rivers outlining the body.
What to See In Cusco
Plaza de Armas
Marking the city centre is Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, which dates all the way back to Inca times when it served as the main plaza in the capital of the Incan Empire. It is known by several other names including Huacaypata meaning “square of tears”, Huacapata “sacred place” and Aucaypata “place of the warrior”.
The main features of the plaza are undoubtedly the Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. In the centre of the square is a water fountain, where most of the free walking tours depart from. The fountain itself dates back to the 19th century but in 2011 a gold statue of an Inca was placed atop the fountain, causing controversy among locals since. Surrounding the square are red roofed Spanish colonials with stone pillars and archways supporting wooden balconies.
Cusco Cathedral
This iconic cathedral dominates the north-eastern edge of the Plaza de Armas. It is built on the foundations of an ancient Incan temple called Kiswarkancha. When the Spanish conquistadors came to Cusco they forced the Incas to build the cathedral, using blocks from an nearby Incan site, Sacsaywaman. The complex, which took almost 100 years to build, is made up of this main cathedral as well as two connecting churches, Iglesia del Triunfo (Cusco’s oldest church) and Iglesia Sagrada Familia. Today it houses colonial art and historical artifacts. It is open everyday 10am to 5:45pm and costs 25PEN/$7USD to enter.
Iglesia de La Compania de Jesus
The Society of Jesus Church, along the southern edge of Plaza de Armas was also built on an ancient Incan temple, called Amaru Cancha. The construction of the baroque style church began in 1571, but it was rebuilt after the Great Earthquake of 1650. It’s notable for its’ carved alters, paintings and the view from the belltower over Plaza de Armas. You can visit between 8am-11am and 1pm-5pm Monday to Saturday and from 9am-10:30am and 1pm-5pm on Sundays for 10PEN/$2.80USD.
Qorikancha
Possibly the most significant site in Cusco, Qorikancha (Golden Temple) was once the most important temple in the Inca Empire. It is rumored that around the year 1200 the first Inca, Manco Capac, began constructing the Temple of the Sun in honor of his father Inti, the sun god. In the mid-fifteenth century the Inca King Pachacutec restructured the temple, covering it with gold. During this time the walls were lined with solid sheets of gold and life-sized gold statues filled the temple. Unfortunately when the conquistadors arrived the temple was ransacked and the gold melted down, leaving only the stone we can see today. The museum showcases the Incas incredible stonework while also touching on their broad knowledge of astronomy.
San Pedro Markets
From hand woven Peruvian blankets and alpaca clothing to secret herbs and fresh fruit and vege, the San Pedro Markets have it all. An undercover maze of markets stalls, you can find all your souvenirs in one place and then stop for lunch at one of the many food stalls. The meat section is not for the fainthearted, with red puddles on the concrete and whole animal heads on display, explore at your own risk. It’s a great place to pick up some Aguas de Florida which can help with altitude sickness. Prices here are comparably cheaper than other markets in Cusco and around Peru. Be sure to barter hard.
The 12 Angled Stone
Located in the historical centre of Cusco, along a stone wall dating back to the Incan Empire, you will find the 12 angled stone. This stone is one of the best examples of the Incas’ advanced masonry skills. It was laid without using any mortar and with such incredible precision that still today it aligns so perfectly that even a single piece of paper will not fit between the wall’s blocks.
La Merced
About 100 metres from the main square is La Merced. The church houses several paintings and other artworks, the tombs of two conquistadors Diego de Almagro and Gonzalo Pizarro as well as La Custodia de la Merced, a 24 carat gold monstrance bejewelled with over 1500 diamonds and more than 600 other precious gems. It is open Monday to Saturday 8am-5:30pm and entry costs 10PEN.
San Blas Neighbourhood
The climb up the steep, cobbled streets of the San Blas neighbourhood, is a must when in Cusco. Named San Blas by the invading conquistadors, it was originally known as T’oqokachi back during the Inca Empire when it home to important families skilled in crafts and architecture. Today it is known as the artisans’ quarter and is still home to the city’s greatest artists. The narrow streets with iconic blue doors, full of galleries, artisan shops and restaurants are, in my opinion, some of the most photogenic in Cusco and offer sweeping views over the city.
Limbus Bar
Claiming to have the best view in all of Cusco, I can’t think of a better place to sit back with a pisco sour and watch the sunset! Situated up in the San Blas neighbourhood, Limbus Bar offers breathtaking views over the city and surrounding valley as well as a great value Happy Hour! Be sure to book your table in advance which you can do online via their website.
Sacsaywaman
Two kilometres outside of Cusco are the Incan ruins known as Sacsayhuaman. It’s easily remembered by travellers’ for it’s pronunciation, which sounds like ‘sexy woman’, although it roughly translates to ‘satisfied falcon’. The site is yet another example of the Incas incredible masonry. It was built under the rule of Pachacutec, who envisioned the city of Cusco in the shape of a Puma with Sacsayhuaman as its’ head. These ruins include 22 fortification walls designed in a zigzag shape to form the teeth of the Puma. It is best known for the its’ 1536 battle where the Inca rebel forces were defeated by the Spanish conquistadors. Fun fact, the condors on Cusco’s coat of arms are in commemoration of this battle due to so many of the birds swarming to the site to eat the thousands of dead. Unfortunately the Spaniards destroyed much of these ruins, leaving only around 20% of original structures today. You can reach the ruins by a 10 minute taxi or 45 minute uphill walk from the historical centre of Cusco.
Cusco Nightlife
Cusco is renowned for having the best nightlife in Peru, most of which can be found nearby the Plaza de Armas. Mama Africa, on the corner of the main square features weekly DJs and was one of the best spots to dance the night away.
What To See Outside of Cusco
Machu Picchu
You can’t come to Peru without visiting it’s most iconic sight, Machu Pichu. Hidden amongst the clouds up in the Andean mountains and steeped in mystery, it is considered one of the best archeological sights in the world. Although no one really knows for sure exactly when or why it was built, the ancient city of Machu Pichu is believed to have been build by Inca Pachacutec for the elite members of the Incan Empire. It was then mysteriously abandoned, disappearing from history and remaining hidden for almost 400 years, it was rediscovered in 1911 by scholar Hiram Bingham. Hike the famous Inca Trail from Cusco or relax on one of the world’s best train rides to the town of Aguas Calientes at the base of these unmissable ruins. For my complete guide on visiting Machu Pichu click here.
Rainbow Mountain
Located in the Peruvian Andes, Rainbow Mountain was only discovered in 2015, when the layers of snow and ice began to melt off the mountain revealing the many colours of this new natural wonder. This colouration is caused by weathering and mineral deposits. Today it is the second most visited attraction in Peru. With an altitude of 5,200 metres it is about a 3.5 hour drive from Cusco. An alternative to the popular Rainbow Mountain is Palcoyo. It came highly recommended by fellow travelers wanting to avoid the crowds. An easier trail at a lower altitude, Palcoyo offers a higher and lower walk with stunning views of the surrounding mountain ranges. Click here for my full guide to visiting Rainbow Mountain.
The Sacred Valley
The Sacred Valley, named so for it’s fertile lands, begins north of Cusco. The key attractions being the Incan ruins in the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, it is also known for it’s textiles and markets, hiking and the salt flats of Urubamba. Busses, minivans and trains connect with Cusco making it easy to get to. Drive through stunning farmland and see the ancient terraces still in use today, visit a weaving centre to learn about Peruvian textiles and feed some llamas or stop at an Inca bar for some chicha de jora.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Fly
Cusco’s International Airport (CUZ) has daily international and national flights and is only a 6 kilometer drive outside the city centre. Flying in gives you an idea of how huge Cusco really is. At 3,400m above sea level our flight didn’t need to make much a descent before it was time to land. Taxis from the airport to the historical centre have set rates at 10-15PEN ($3-4USD) but will start with a higher price so be sure to barter and agree on a price beforehand. There are also several companies offering private shuttles from the airport into the city which starts at 20PEN ($5.50USD).
Bus
Peru’s bus network offers several options for getting to/from Cusco. The main interchange is Terminal Terrestre where all international busses arrive/depart. Daily busses travel to Copacabana on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca as well as to La Paz. Other direct services include Lima, Arequipa and Puno. Busses in Peru can be a bit hit or miss but Cruz del Sur and Ormeno have a good reputation. Inka Express also comes highly recommended and offers a Route of the Sun tour on the way to Puno in a luxury coach. They include a buffet lunch and 5 stops along the way.
I personally recommend Peru Hop, whose private terminal is located a short drive from the Historical Centre. We travelled from Arequipa arriving into Cusco at 10:00pm and then departed for Puno on an overnight service. The guides are helpful and professional, the bus is comfortable and it takes the stress out of traveling.
Train
Cusco has two main train stations. Estacion Huanchac which connects Cusco to the Sacred Valley and the town of Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Pichu and Estacion Poroy which connects with Juliaca and Puno. There is a third station which foreigners are not allowed to use.
Taxis
Cusco is a huge city and getting around will likely require using a taxi. They have set rates so check with your accommodation to get an idea of suitable prices and always agree on a price beforehand. There are a lot of unofficial taxis so always look for a lit up sign with the company name and number to ensure they are legit.
Uber
To save the hassle of bartering we opted to use Uber for getting around and found this to be the easiest and cheapest transportation option.
TOP TIPS
Cusco is 3,400 meters above sea level and many people can be affected by the high altitude. It’s a good idea to give yourself a couple days to acclimatise before doing too much walking or beginning any hikes. Chewing coca leaves or drinking coca leaf tea is a remedy locals use to help with altitude. Agua de Florida (also known as spirit water and used by shamans) really helped me when I began to feel the altitude. Simply put a few drops in your palms and rub them together before covering your nose and mouth and inhaling a few times. Both of these remedies can be purchased from the San Pedro markets in Cusco.
Cusco experiences both a dry season (May to October) and a wet season (November to April). Being at a high altitude the wet season can often mean snow so bear this in mind if you’re planning to venture out to Rainbow Mountain or do some hiking. During the wet season landslides are not uncommon and can seriously delay travel plans. During the month of February the famous Inca trail that leads to Machu Pichu is also closed.
