SAN BLAS
The San Blas archipelago is made up of 365 islands, spanning along the Panama’s Caribbean coastline. Clear blue water, soft white sand and coconut palms, these pristine islands are the definition of a tropical paradise.
San Blas had been recommended to me by multiple travellers throughout Central America, so when it came time to find a way from Panama into South America the choice was clear. Add this to your bucket list right now!
A MEANS OF TRAVEL
With limited alternative options, The San Blas are becoming increasingly popular as a means of travel between Central and South America. Along the border of Panama and Colombia is one of the world’s most dangerous places, known as The Darien Gap. This impenetrable jungle is home to drug smugglers, anti-government guerrillas, disease and deadly creatures. Stretching for over 100 kilometers with no infrastructure, The Darien Gap is the missing link in the world’s longest road, the Pan American Highway, which runs from Alaska to Argentina. This makes it near impossible and extremely dangerous to travel from Central to South America by land. Despite how exciting I found the idea of an escapade through this lawless jungle, we too opted for the four days of boozy island hopping.
THE CULTURE
Formerly known as Kuna (or Guna) Yala, San Blas is home to the indigenous Kuna people, who inhabit about 49 of the 365 islands. The Kuna first settled on the islands around 1800 after relocating from Colombia and Panama’s Darien province to escape the Spanish invasion.
When Panama gained its independence in 1903 the new Panamanian government tried to westernise the Kuna culture by banning traditional dress and enforcing a national culture. This was met with great protest by the fiercely independent Kunas, eventually leading to the Kuna Revolution of 1925 and a treaty which declared Kuna Yala an independent state within Panama. They Kuna have since been free to govern their own laws, enabling them to preserve their culture, heritage and their natural environment. Each community within San Blas is led by a Saila and the governing Kuna General Congress is made up of three great Sailas.
The Kuna, particularly the women, are known for their colourful dress. Aside from the gorgeous scenery one of the first things to catch my eye were the women, traditionally dressed in patterned skirts, molas and head scarves with colourful beads decorating their wrists and ankles. Molas are hand-made textiles which embody Kuna identity. The art originates from the women painting their bodies with geometric designs which was transferred onto fabric after Europeans settled in Panama. They are made from layers of coloured fabric using reverse application to depict patterns, animals, the land, politics and cultural legends. When visiting the islands you will have the opportunity to purchase locally made molas, which make for a very unique souvenir or gift.
GETTING TO SAN BLAS
BY LAND & SEA
From Panama City you will need to make your way by 4X4 to the port in Carti, in the Golf of Guna Yala, where connecting boat transfers will take you out to the islands. Most accommodations are able to assist in organising transfers which generally cost around $70USD, including the entry fee.
You can also technically drive yourself if you really wanted to, providing you hire a 4X4 which can handle the rough and winding roads and the rental company will allow you to take drive to San Blas. Bear in mind that you will need to pay the $20USD entry fee for foreign tourists and an additional $2 dock fee. You will also need to pay to park your car in Carti while you’re on the islands.
FLY
It is also possible to fly from Panama City directly to some islands with Panama Air. These small planes fly into Achutupo (ACU), Corazon de Jesus (CZJ), El Porvenir (PVE), Malatupo (MPP), Playon Chico (PYC) and Puerto Obaldia (PUE).
DAY TOUR
Several tour companies offer full day tours departing Panama City from $100-120USD per person. These will generally include pick up and drop off from your accommodation, entry fees and taxes, a visit to one or two islands and lunch. Multi-night tours are also available return from Panama City.
PANAMA TO COLOMBIA
Possibly the most popular way to visit San Blas is on a journey from Panama to Colombia, or vice versa. Several different tour companies offer trips in both directions.
Sailing options are available between Panama and Cartagena, Colombia. The journey generally takes 5 nights in total depending on the weather conditions, with 3 days spent island hopping through San Blas and 2 days spent in open water crossing. Prices are set by the captain of each boat and will depend on the boat and seasonality but ranges between $500-700USD per person. This generally includes all meals, drinking water, tea & coffee, your accommodation onboard as well as snorkelling gear.
The other option is to travel via fast boat and stay on the actual islands on a journey from Panama to Capurgana, Colombia. This trip takes 3 nights/4 days and is the option we chose to go with. We went with San Blas Adventures who had great reviews and came recommended. We paid $399USD per person, though prices can range up to $445USD per person depending on the season. These four days of island hopping; living in the salt water, sleeping in hammocks above the sand and drinking far too much rum with an absolutely awesome group of people, was the highlight of my time in Panama. Continue reading for the full details of my experience with San Blas Adventures.
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in San Blas ranges from luxury overwater bungalows to hammocks on the beach. Generally speaking the quality of most hotels is less than what you’d expect in the western world, but consider it all part of the experience. Traditional Kuna villages are made up of wood and cane stick huts with thatched palm leaf roofs. Accommodation can be booked online through sites such as Booking.com, or you can try your luck organising something on arrival. It is also possible to book accommodation onboard a sailboat or catamaran if that’s more your thing.
Traveling with San Blas Adventures we slept in hammocks each night inside traditional huts built right on the sand. There was no running water or electricity on the smaller islands which meant bucket showers and bonfires on the beach. Embrace island life, it’s only for a few nights afterall.
WHAT TO PACK
As our larger bags were completely sealed inside plastic in an attempt to waterproof the bulk of our luggage, we packed everything we would need for the 4 days of island hopping into a smaller backpack. Needless to say the most important items to pack are your passport and proof of yellow fever vaccination so that you can travel out of Panama and enter into Colombia.
The bulk of each day was spent either in the water or relaxing around the various islands, so obviously pack your swimsuit. I recommend wearing these under your clothes when you depart Panama City to avoid having to change at the paid toilets in Cardi. As far as clothes go you really only need one or two changes and something to sleep in. It’s a good idea to pack something warm or bring a sheet as the nights can get a little cool sleeping in a hammock. You’ll also need a towel, plenty of sunscreen and insect repellent.
As there is no electricity on many of the smaller islands you’ll want to make sure your electronics (particularly your phone, camera and/or Go Pro) are fully charged before you leave. I recommend taking a portable charger if you’ve got one. A torch may also come in handy if you’re moving around the island late at night. It’s a good idea to double bag all your electronics and travel documents in zip lock bags before you leave as well.
Once you’re on the islands there’s no running to a store so pack plenty of drinking water, snacks and spirits! It’s also a good idea to bring your own toilet paper. There’s no ATMs on the journey from Panama to Colombia so be sure to take out enough cash and keep it handy for canned drinks, coconuts and any souvenirs you may want to purchase from the local Kuna.
MY EXPERIENCE
We had made our way to Panama City and after a few days of exploring the city and venturing out to the Canal it was time to begin our journey from Central to South America. We’d booked our San Blas Adventure tour online and the day before our trip officially began they organised an introduction meeting at the Lunas Castle Hostel in the Old Quarter. Here we met our guide, Alejandro, and the 26 other travellers who would be joining us.
That afternoon we hit the supermarket, stocking up on cheap spirits, mixers and snacks…oh and water of course. They recommended bringing 4.5 litres (1 gallon) of water per person. Once you’re on the islands drinks are available for purchase during the day from the local Kuna who sell coconuts, beer and premixed cans for $1-2USD, but it’s a good idea to bring extra for late nights around the bonfire.
We also made sure we had enough cash out as there are no ATM’s after you leave Panama City until you arrive in Necocli, Colombia. San Blas Adventures recommended bringing at least $250USD per person. Basically you will need enough cash for any drinks (generally $1-2USD) or souvenirs ($5-30USD) you want to buy on the islands. Once you arrive in Colombia you will need cash for your accommodation and meals in Capurgana and then your onward transport to Necocli.
We then packed anything we might need into a smaller, easily accessible bag and did our best to waterproof the rest of our luggage. Any valuables and electronics we put into zip lock bags. We’d managed to purchase some backpack liners from an outdoor/adventure store at Albrook Mall in Panama City. We also placed our larger bags into giant bin liners before taping them shut, ensuring our belongings would remain dry over the next four days.
DAY ONE – EL PELICANO & COCO BANDERA
It was an early start as we gathered for our 5am pick up from Hostel Mamallena. We loaded up the 4X4’s with our luggage, now all matching black rubbish bags, distinguishable only by the masking tape on which our names were written. We did make one last, quick stop at a Supermarket to give everyone a chance to buy anything they may have forgotten.
We then drove out of Panama City and continued along the Pan-American Highway toward the notorious Darien province. Once we turned off the highway it was a very rough and bumpy ride, up and down long winding roads. After a very dodgy pit stop to stretch our legs, we continued to the government checkpoint at the entrance of the Kuna Yala, where we showed our passports and our guide paid our $20USD entrance fees. After about 3 hours we arrived at the Port of Carti. There was nothing here except for the paid toilets which I recommend you avoid if at all possible. We loaded up our two fast boats and were on our way to our first island.
El Pelicano was our first stop. A tiny island with pure white sand and tall coconut palms, I couldn’t help but think it looked exactly how I might have drawn a tropical island as a kid. After more introductions among our group of 26, now that we had finally made it, the real fun began. Our afternoon was spent relaxing in the clear, warm waters that surrounded our small piece of paradise while drinking cold beers and occasionally pinching ourselves to be sure we weren’t dreaming. Our lunch was prepared right here on the island. Locally caught, fish curry which was delicious, despite the odd scale.
In the late afternoon we climbed back into our boats and continued on to the island where we would spend out first night, Coco Bandera. Our accommodation was in long bamboo huts, where roughly 14 hammocks hung above the white sand. After another dip in the Carribbean water and watching a game or two of volleyball, I experienced my first bucket shower. Surprisingly refreshing, it did the trick for getting the salt off me.
After the most incredible lobster dinner, courtesy of our amazing guide/chef Alejandro, we gathered by the bonfire at the far end of the island. The music played and the rum flowed until the stars began to shine brighter than the fire.
DAY TWO – DUBBIR
I awoke early and decided to walk around our little island. Feet first straight onto the sand, I could see a couple of small, palm covered islands nearby. Two yachts sat off their shores floating in the water which was three shades of perfect Caribbean blue. I was taken from my peaceful little moment with the sound of the breakfast gong. After brushing our teeth in the ocean, we loaded up the boats and set off in search of a new island.
Dubbir, while equally stunning, was completely different to the white sandy islands we’d visited the day before. Thick grass and countless tall palm trees surrounded us here.
A short swim, across a deep and slightly unnerving trench, was a small rocky island, surrounded by a reef. A few of us grabbed the snorkel gear and headed over, spotting sergeant majors, butterfly fish, damselfish and bluehead wrasse amongst the sea grass and corals.
Back on Dubbir, lunch was served. Fresh made hummus, cucumber and quinoa salad, accompanied by beetroot salad and fresh bread rolls. We laid on the grass digesting under the shade of coconut palms, played cards, tried our hand at slacklining, swam and enjoyed some good old fashioned day drinking. I could certainly get used to island life.
After watching a beautiful sunset, our guide/professional slackliner, blew us away with his culinary skills once again when dinner was served. Which was followed by another bonfire and some drinking games that even I’d never heard of.
DAY THREE – ATIDUB ISLAND AND CALEDONIA
We loaded up the boats once again after breakfast and made our way to Atidub Island. Once again it looked completely different to the previous islands, this time we docked at a small wooden pier and made out way down to the rocky shore. It was a full day of sun, day drinks in the calm, shallow water and the odd volleyball game against the local Kuna.
In the late afternoon our attention turned to a group of Kuna women. Colourfully dressed in their traditional molas, they rowed in to shore on their dugout canoes. Our guide/volleyball champion then announced that we could be rowing ourselves in these canoes to the next island where we would spend the night. Almost immediately they began taking on water as we paddled behind our fast boat which gradually disappeared ahead of us. One person steering from the back while I futilely attempted to bail water. By some miracle we made it, just as the last few centremeters of our canoe sunk beneath the waters surface.
Tonight we stayed on Caledonia Island, a Kuna village. We began with an evening walk through the village. Our walk concluded in the village square where a group of children performed a traditional welcome dance for us. The cultural moment was soon interrupted as the overexcited children began running around us wanting to be picked up and grabbing any jewellery we had on, keep your valuables close.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant where we had the chance to talk to a local Kuna man about life in San Blas and learn more about their culture. If you’re wanting to try traditional Kuna cuisine then order Tule masi, which literally translates to Kuna food. Tule masi is a soup made of fish and plantains.
Drinking was prohibited in the village, outside of our accommodation and the restaurant so we made our way back to our hostel for one last epic night of shotguns and dancing on tables.
DAY FOUR – SAPZURRO AND CAPURGANA, COLOMBIA
We were awoken by the sound of the breakfast gong and someone strumming a guitar. I took one last stroll through the village in the new morning light and watched as men rowed out in their canoes to catch fish, while others tended to livestock and the women, who didn’t seem very impressed by my presence, moved buckets of drinking water across the island. Then for one last time we loaded up the boats and headed toward the Colombian border.
We arrived at Puerto Obaldia, on the mainland just above the Panama/Colombia border. Feeling the effects of the previous night’s drinks, in the hot sun we carried all of our luggage from the boats to a military checkpoint where we laid them out in one long row. We then moved well away as the authorities and the dogs inspected each bag to ensure no one was smuggling drugs. After what felt like a really long time we were free to continue past the checkpoint. We piled our bags outside the wall and walked into town to find the immigration office. A very hot and cramped room with just a single fan, we stood and waited in turn to receive our exit stamps out of Panama. As we waited for the rest of our group to receive their stamps we made our way across town to a small bakery. A soccer match was taking place in a nearby sports field and those of us who weren’t catching up on some much needed sleep enjoyed the free entertainment.
Before re-boarding the boats we said goodbye to two of our group who were staying in Puerto Obaldia for the night to catch a flight the following day. For anyone else considering this, don’t! We later ran into one of them who told us of their traumatic experience. After being jumped by some local men and the army showing up with guns to rescue them last minute, they spent a sleepless night in their hotel with doors and windows locked.
For the rest of us who were fortunate enough to re-board the boats, our next stop was Sapzurro in Colombia. We’d made it! No immigration or presenting our passports, we headed straight to the beach where our guide served us up tamales, a traditional Colombian dish of rice and vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf. Our afternoon was spent lying in the sun floating in the still Carribbean water, but there’s loads to do here. Some of Colombia’s best preserved reefs are just off shore making it a popular spot for diving and snorkelling. On land there’s several trails and hikes along the coast and into the jungle which offer the chance to spot some local wildlife like toucans and monkeys. One trail actually leads back into Panama where you can visit a small village, for anyone who wants to “walk between continents”.
That afternoon, another short boat ride around the headland brought us to Capurgana where our San Blas Adventure concluded. Our guide gathered all of our passports to take to immigration for us to collect at a later time. Then everyone set off to try and find accommodation for the night. The first few places we tried were fully booked and we were starting to think we should have pre-booked a room. Fortunately, just a couple hundred meters from the dock, we stumbled across Hectors House. It was a cute, waterfront hostel with affordable private rooms. I don’t know if it was just because I got to have my first proper shower in four days but I absolutely loved this hostel. Even if the shower was cold water fed through a narrow pipe surrounded by besser blocks through which I could see the surrounding jungle and a storm rolling in, and even once the storm arrived that afternoon and our ceiling began pouring water forcing us to move rooms. The owner was super friendly and helpful, the rooms were cosy and the upstairs common area was a large open deck with its own little library and hammocks to relax in as you look out over the water.
Most of us chose to spend a couple nights in Capurgana. This was just as well for me as I couldn’t get my passport back until the following day after being told there was a “problem” right before their office closed for the night. As a dual citizen I had switched from my Canadian passport back to my Australian passport to avoid the $80USD entry fee that Canadians have to pay when entering Colombia. But as a result there was no proof of my exiting Panama. Luckily I just had to take my other passport down to the immigration building the following day and they stamped me into Colombia and released my passport back to me. Phew!
The San Blas Adventures group met for one last official dinner before heading out to Macondo Bar! It wasn’t really goodbye as most of us had plans to continue on to Cartegena. I definitely recommend spending at least a couple nights in Capurgana before moving on.
BOOKING ONWARD TRAVEL
From Capurgana we decided to make our way to Cartagena which involves a full day of traveling via boat and bus. It’s a good idea to book your ticket in advance as the ferries can fill up quickly. The ticket office in Capurgana is located directly opposite the pier. The cost for a boat & bus transfer from Capurgana was 155,000COP ($56USD). This includes 10kg of luggage per person and excess weight costs 1000COP ($0.25USD) per kg.
We had taken our passports down to the ticket office to buy our tickets the day before. On the day of travel you are required to check in and check your bag for the ferry. Extra large plastic bags are available to purchase at check in to ensure your bag keeps dry for 2000COP ($0.50USD). Once we’d weighed and checked our bags it was a short wait before we were instructed to head across the road to the dock. As you depart you must pay a small departure tax of and then show proof before boarding the ferry. The journey to Necocli is about 1 hour 45 minutes.
Arriving in Necocli it was clear that we’d reached a more accessible part of Colombia as vendors surrounded us with their boards of sunglasses and we already longed for the simplicity if island/jungle life. They called our bags and we headed across the road from the wharf to Hotel Cocobana where we waited for the rest of our travel companions. The friendly staff here allowed us to use their wifi and toilets for free and we hurriedly tried to download some episodes on Netflix for the long bus journey ahead.
It took 3 ferry trips before everyone had arrived and we boarded the bus which appeared like magic for us directly out front the hotels café, too easy! The following 12 hours were spent traveling across the north of Colombia. Our driver made multiple toilet stops along the way at various petrol stations and a bus interchange in Monteria. The interchange here also has an ATM where we finally managed to take out some more cash. I instantly noticed how much cheaper things were here compared to Central America. A friend who had made this journey the day before had told us her driver made no stops, so be prepared for this as well. We passed motorbikes transporting chickens, farmers tending to their bananas and waited in road blocks caused by protestors before arriving at Cartagena bus station 14 hours after leaving Capurgana.
