yangon
Yangon, once known as Rangoon, is Myanmar’s largest city and was the capital until 2005. It can be a little overwhelming coming from the rest of Myanmar. History, temples and a unique colonial downtown make this city worth a visit.
We arrived in Yangon, very relieved having survived out flight with Air KBZ with their cardboard cut-out check in desk and hand written boarding passes, and set out to explore the city. Downtown Yangon’s grid of streets make it easy to navigate as well as to avoid the sun during the hotter months. British rule between 1824-1948 resulted in many colonial style buildings and many of them remain today. However due to the government proclaiming Naypyidaw the new capital at the end of 2005, many of these buildings have been abandoned. There is a rather eerie feeling as you walk through downtown’s core, past once beautiful buildings, now empty and covered with grime and overgrown plants. Maha Bandula Park in the heart of downtown, opposite Yangon’s city hall, is a nice place to sit and relax.
Here you will also find Sule Pagoda. Legend has it that it was build during the time of the Gautama Buddha. Standing outside the pagoda you will see Bengali Sunni Jameh Mosque to your right as well as Immanuel Baptist Church to your left, an great example of Yangon’s diversity.
The most famous pagoda of course is Shwedagon Pagoda. Standing 99 meters high it is visible from most of the city. It is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar and is believed to contain relics from four Buddhas. Legend has it that the pagoda was build over 2600 years ago, making it the oldest pagoda in Myanmar, however historians believe it was built by Mon people around the 6th century. Said to be the richest pagoda in the world, it is plated with over 20,000 solid gold bars and topped with 4531 diamonds, the largest being 72 carats. There are four entrances to the pagoda, entry costs approximately $8USD and includes a nice chilled bottle of water and a refreshment wipe.
The main stupa sits in the centre of the complex surrounded by 64 smaller stupas. Many other structures and shrines surround the complex, making it easy to spend an hour or two here. I recommend being here for sunset. Sit and listen to the hundreds of Buddhists chant their prayers and watch as the giant gold stupa changes colour with the sun.
The Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda houses the well-known reclining Buddha. At 65 meters long it is one of the biggest reclining Buddha’s in South East Asia. There is something mesmerizing about this Buddha. Be it the sheer size or the detail that’s gone into it, I’m not sure. By the feet of the Buddha is a small platform where you can take some great photos. Small shrines surround the Buddha and monks from the nearby monastery lit candles and rang bells. They also encouraged us to ring the bells.
Not far from here is Nga Htat Gyi Pagoda, where a 14 meter, or 5 storey Buddha sits. We were the only foreigners and among very few visitors. A group of Buddhists kneeled on the carpet and chanted prayers and we were welcome to sit and listen. With very few people there I found this to be very peaceful and highly recommend a visit.
There are several city parks in Yangon. To the North is Inya Lake, the largest park in the city. It is a popular place for couples, as our guide pointed out. If you see someone with an umbrella it generally means they are on a date and will use it for privacy as public displays of affection are frowned upon in Myanmar. Another interesting fact is that traditionally if a man walks with a woman on his right side it means they are a friend or relative. If they walk with them on the left it means they are married or in a relationship.
Peoples Park, full of well manicured gardens and fountains, is a great spot to take pictures of Shwedagon Pagoda. Next to the Yangon Zoo is Kandawgyi Lake, home to Karaweik Hall. This may look familiar if you’re a drinker of Myanmar Lager as it features on the label. From a distance it looks like a large floating barge as the design was based on the Pyi Gyi Mon Royal Barge which the Kings once used to travel on. Inside you can purchase a buffet dinner and watch traditional Myanmar entertainment in one of their theatres. About a 10 minute walk from this lake there is also a National Museum, which houses artifacts that once belonged to Myanmars Kings.
No visit to Yangon is complete without a visit to the Bogyoke Markets. Make your way over the crazy traffic and enter this famous bazaar with it’s 2000+ shops. Here you will find everything from lacquerware souvenirs, clothes, fabrics and tailors, art galleries, jewellery, etc. If you time it right you may be able to see monks collecting alms. We were there around midday and were lucky enough to witness this. Opposite the markets is Junction City, a huge modern shopping mall. Prices are a lot more expensive compared to anywhere else but it’s a nice, airconditioned place to escape the chaos of the city. They also have a large selection of restaurants in their food court on the top floor.
Unlike other towns throughout Myanmar Yangon has more of a nightlife. I recommend starting at Yangon Yangon bar. Sitting atop the Sakura Tower it is the highest bar in Yangon and offers 360 degree views of the city, including Shwedagon Pagoda. Entry may cost you 5000 kyats but this goes towards your first drink and is enough for a large Myanmar beer here. Happy hour is 5-7pm and there is often live music. We also ended up at Pirate Bar on 47th Street and despite first impressions loved it. They have cheap beer and good music to dance to.
As for food, my favorite restaurant in the city is without a doubt 999 Shan Noodle Shop on 34th street. The food is delicious and cheap but it’s the staff and their great sense of humour that really makes this place. I recommend the shan noodle salad and the shan yellow rice, though everything was great.
To get around Yangon your best bet is probably going to be a taxi. Taxi’s will have red license plates and as per usual make sure you agree on a price before you get in. Fun fact, the colour of the license plate tells you what type of vehicle it is, for example black means privately owned and white means it belongs to a diplomat or ambassador. Yangon does also have a train line which offers a circular route throughout the city. To complete a full circle would take approximately 3 hours.
