JOURNEY ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY
Stretching for thousands of miles across an entire continent, from the historical home of Russia’s Tsars, through the rugged landscapes of Mongolia to the Great Wall of China, the Trans-Siberian Railway is a true bucket list adventure! It dates back to 1891 when Alexander III first approved plans for a railway line that stretched from St Petersburg to Vladivostok on Russia’s Eastern coast, with additions to Mongolia and China added in the 1940’s-50’s. Today it is Russia’s most important transport link used by traveller’s and locals alike. Drink vodka, practise your Russian and meet people you will never forget on this once in a lifetime journey.
MY GUIDE TO THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY
Plan Your Route
Figuring out where to start when planning your journey on the Trans-Siberian can be a little overwhelming. With so many variations and possible connections I would recommend starting with mapping out where you want to stop and what you want to see first.
The traditional Trans-Siberian route, the longest railway line in the world, travels 9,259km between Moscow and Vladivostok on Russia’s Pacific Coast, but there are several variations you can take. The two main variations are the Trans-Manchurian, which travels to the far Eastern city of Harbin in China before continuing to Beijing, and the Tran-Mongolian which also travels to Beijing but via Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia. I chose to take the latter and travelled across the 3 countries.
All three variations can be done non-stop in 6-8 nights, but I would urge you to take the time to make stops along the way and take in the varying cultures and sites. A separate ticket will need to be purchased for each leg. It is wise to give yourself some flexibility as timetables can change and particularly tend to do so on the routes via Mongolia as I discovered the hard way. Travel can be done in either direction with the majority of travellers starting in the west and heading east but they say you meet more locals heading east to west. While I can’t compare the reverse journey, I certainly met some interesting locals along with other travellers in this direction. From friendly Ulaanbaatar locals who taught me to sing Happy Birthday in Mongolian to Russian soldiers excited to show me their photos with Vladimir Putin at their last military event, they are people I will never forget.
Train & Cabin Types
Russia’s network of trains range from modern high speed trains to older basic trains. The rule of thumb is the lower the number the nicer the train which is usually reflected in the price. Firmeny trains operate throughout Russia and are the most modern sleeper trains. They also tend to make fewer stops along the way. Skory, meaning fast, trains make up the majority of long distance sleeper trains. They are less modern than Firmeny and often make more stops, which usually makes them a cheaper option. Passenger sleeper trains, which are numbered 160 and above, are slightly lower quality again and therefore cheaper again.
Most trains will have 3 classes of cabins. First class, known as Spalny Vagon, is a 2 berth cabin. On Chinese and Mongolian trains they feature an upper and lower bunk with a sofa, while in Russia they feature 2 lower bunks. Second class, known as Kupe, is a 4 berth cabin with 2 upper and 2 lower bunks. Third class, known as platskartny, features dormitory bunk bedding throughout an entire carriage. For a happy medium between budget and comfort/security I opted for a 4 berth kupe cabin. It is also possible to book a gender-specific cabin for those who prefer to do so.
Buying Your Tickets
Tickets can be purchased up to 45-60 days in advance. You can choose to book direct with Russian Railways via their website here, as well as their app. The website is not overly user friendly but is the best option if you’re budget conscious. Remember that you will need a separate ticket for each leg of your journey. Alternatively you can also purchase your tickets at the train station, but bear in mind these trains often sell out well in advance. For tailor made itineraries or help with visas I would recommend booking your tickets with a travel agent.
One of the biggest questions I come across is how much does it cost. Costs vary a lot depending on the type of train, how many stops you want to make, how far in advance you book, etc. To give a rough estimate for a non-stop full length journey, a first class ticket would be around $1800USD, $900USD for second class and approximately half that price again for third class.
Once you have your train ticket unless you understand Cyrillic they can be quite difficult to understand. Click here for a helpful link to help decipher your ticket. It is important to note that Moscow time is used on all Russian train tickets!
What To Expect Onboard
Each carriage has their own attendant, called provodnitsas, who are responsible for looking after passengers and keeping the carriage clean. They provide the bedding for all cabin types which includes a top and bottom sheet, blanket and a pillow. There are power points onboard. On the Trans-Mongolian train we shared a single power point in the cabin, while in Russia they were located only in the hallway. There is plenty of storage space either below the lower bunks or above the door for the upper bunks and each cabin has a small table between the lower berths. I recommend packing essentials for each journey in a smaller, easily accessible bag to avoid having to haul out your main bag each time. Bathrooms are located at the ends of each carriage and are equipped with just a toilet and a sink. Note the bathrooms get locked 30 minutes prior to arriving at a station!
Each train has a dining cart where you can purchase meals and drinks. It’s a great place to meet fellow travellers for a game of cards or some vodka. When traveling internationally the dining carts are changed upon crossing the border. From Beijing to the Mongolian border the Chinese dining cart was available. Once we reached the border the carriage was changed over to a Mongolian dining cart which sold snacks or set menu items. In Russia, the further east we got the more modern each dining cart became. They accepted cash only but between Ulaanbaatar and Beijing they took both Chinese Yuan and Mongolian Togrog. Prices vary from $2-3USD for beer, $2-5USD for snacks and $7-26USD for a main meal.
You also have the option to bring your own food onboard. At one end of each carriage is a samovar which provides hot water, so stock up on some instant noodles and coffee sachets before your journey! Most trains offer free drinking water but I would still recommend bringing a large bottle with you just in case. Technically you aren’t meant to bring your own alcohol onboard, however they tend to turn a blind eye as long as you’re behaving. In fact, at the Mongolian border they allowed us back through security and onto the train with open beers. At some stations vendors will board the train or line up on the platform to sell home-made goodies so it’s a good idea to ensure you have enough cash to buy things along the way.
Another question I often get is around safety. Although I was traveling with a group of people, I never once felt unsafe. To my surprise I also met several other solo female travellers along the way. Obviously with any public transport you should use common sense. Keep your valuables with you or locked up, only take what cash you need for each leg, watch what you drink and who you drink with, etc. If you’re a sensible traveller you shouldn’t have any problems.
MY JOURNEY ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY
Beijing
I began my journey in Beijing. After a few days here exploring the city, visiting the Forbidden City, wandering down hutongs and venturing out to The Great Wall of China, it was time to board this legendary train.
Beijing to Ulaanbaatar
We boarded our train at Beijing Railway Station for a 7:30am departure and settled into our quad share cabin. Despite the green velvet bed covers, pink satin sheets with purple curtains, it was quite nice a comfortable. Our cabin was also equipped with a small table, refillable thermos, a single power point to share and we were also provided with headphones.
We left the bustling city of Beijing and headed North-West toward Mongolia. Passing rivers and jagged sandy cliffs, through grasslands and eventually through the Gobi Desert where we rode right into a giant sandstorm. We met fellow travelers, played cards and enjoyed some cold drinks in the dining cart.
Around 8PM we arrived at the Mongolian border. Shortly after arriving Chinese immigration boarded the train where they collected our passports. We were then given the option to get off the train if we liked. We quickly jumped off before they blocked the stairs, at which point you are stuck on the train unable to get off for several hours. At the station there is free wifi! There is also free wifi available at the restaurant directly across the street where they sell cheap beer and delicious dumplings! I highly recommend passing the time here!
While we were off the train they were busy exchanging the dining cart and changing the width of the wheels, as the gauge of the tracks is different in Mongolia than it is in China. The bathrooms are locked during the entire process with no exceptions. Overall it took around 3 hours. Upon re-boarding vendors selling 6 packs of beer, soft drinks, noodles and fruit made their rounds through the carriages. Once we finally received our passports back from the Chinese immigration, it was onto the Mongolian immigration, about 10 minutes down the tracks. Once again they boarded the train and collected our passports. The entire process on this end took around one and a half hours and we were on our way again by 2AM.
Waking the following morning I immediately noticed the difference in Mongolia’s landscape. We passed through dry grassy plains full of wild horses and the occasional ger camp, spotting wild hawks along the way before arriving into Ulaanbaatar Railway Station in the early afternoon.
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Mongolia’s capital city is an unexpected mix of new meets old. Modern glass high rises tower over neoclassical Soviet built buildings, while traditional gers dot the outskirts of town. First thing was first, I had to exchange some currency. Mongolian togrog is a closed currency which means it cannot be purchased outside of Mongolia. After sorting our cash and stopping for our first taste of Mongolian cuisine at Modern Nomads restaurant we left the city and made our way towards Terelj National Park.
Here in the stunning alpine wilderness, we arrived at our ger camp where we would spend the next two nights. Ger camps have been a way of life in Mongolia for hundreds of years and about 90% of the rural population still live this way today. After a solid sleep next to a warm fire we had a full day of exploring the park. We climbed to viewpoints, visited a Buddhist monastery, tried our hand at archery and met a local family of nomads who welcomed us into their home and then took us horse back riding.
The following day was another big tick off the infinite bucket list with a visit to the Genghis Khan Statue Complex, where we climbed the forty meter high statue of Mongolia’s national hero. At the base of the statue is a museum which exhibits artifacts from the Mongol Empire.
The afternoon was spent back in Ulaanbaatar visiting it’s top sights. After the Zaisan Monument which is dedicated to soldiers killed during WWII, it was on to Sukhbaatar Square, the home of Mongolia’s parliament where another Genghis Khan sits watch out front. Then all too soon it was time to head back to the train station.
Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk
We departed Ulaanbaatar in the afternoon on the Trans-Siberian, leaving behind the rolling green hills of Mongolia as we made our way toward to Russian border. The cabins were a little less comfortable than that of the Trans-Mongolian and there is also no dining cart for this specific leg of the journey. Be sure to stock up on snacks beforehand.
Departing Mongolia was very straightforward. We arrived around 10pm, where a member of immigration boarded the train and collected our passports and departure cards and within an hour and twenty minutes we’d received our passports back and continued on for around 30km to the Russian border.
The Russian border can be a very different experience. The border officials hold frightening power in this part of the world so be respectful and do as they ask. Upon arrival a member of immigration boarded the train and walked through the cabins counting and confirming the number of passengers. He was then followed by someone who briefly checked everyone was in possession of a passport and immigration card. Customs was next on the train and we were all asked to take out our luggage and show them the contents. In our case they simply asked what was inside each large bag and then moved on to the next cabin without going through each item. It is important to be aware of the current legislation at the time of traveling. Russia had introduced a law that requires all travelers bringing prescribed medication into Russia to carry the prescription slip displaying your name, the name of the drug as well as the prescribed quantity. For scripts not in Russian they also required a notarized translation. Some cold and flu medicines bought over the counter in many countries may require a prescription in Russia. In saying this I was not prepared with my scripts and they didn’t even check, so it does depend on who you get at the border.
Following customs was border patrol. We stood in turn while she confirmed our identity, and eventually after checking each passport with a blacklight and scanning it we finally received our entry stamps into Russia! It’s wasn’t over yet though, we were asked to step outside our cabin while they conducted one final search. In total we were at the border for about 1 hour 50 minutes and were back on our way by about 2am.
Waking up in Russia the following morning the scenery had completely changed again. Green forests with snow capped mountains on one side of the train and the world’s largest freshwater lake in the world, Lake Baikal, on the other.
Listvyanka
The train arrived in Siberia at Irkutsk Station and we made our way via shuttle bus to the lakeside town of Listvyanka. Lake Baikal, at 600km long, 70km wide and up to 1600m deep in parts is the main attraction of the village. Over the next couple days we explored the lake by boat, hiked alongside it on the 18km Great Baikal Trail, drank beers with holiday makers on the rocky shores and bought some must-try local Baikal fish.
Irkutsk
In the centre of East Siberia is the historical city of Irkutsk. While most people stop here just to get to Lake Baikal there is still a lot worth seeing. With a midnight train departure I had a full day to explore. From the historical UNESCO world heritage site and it’s 18th century wooden buildings, to extravagant churches and green public parks, it’s easy to fill a day here.
Irkutsk to Kazan
Back onboard the Trans-Siberian railway on we made our way east, leaving the white birch forests of Siberia behind us. Faux wood paneling and brown leather benches, the dated cabin on train 81 became our home for the next 3 nights. In contrast to the freezing, temperatures of our previously air-conditioned carriages we found our cabin to be quite warm traveling through the summer. We spent our days mostly in between our cabin and the dining cart, meeting other travelers, practicing Russian and playing cards. Every here and there we would have a longer stop at one of the stations where we could jump off and stretch our legs in the fresh air or restock on cheaper snacks/beers. We travelled out of Siberia, along the border of Kazakhstan and eventually arrived in our next destination of Kazan.
Kazan
One of my absolute favorite stops along the Trans-Siberian and among my top 20 cities world-wide, Kazan is a must stop destination. The capital of Tatarstan, it is where east meets west and Europe and Asia converge. Kazan, meaning “cooking pot”, is a place where different cultures and religions live peacefully side by side. Situated on the Volga River, the city center is home to the UNESCO World Heritage Kazan Kremlin Fortress. Quaint cobblestone streets, Tatarstan cuisine and afternoons spent floating by the embankment are just a few of the many reasons to visit Kazan.
Kazan to Moscow
The next leg of our train journey was much shorter taking only just 6 ½ hours from Kazan to Moscow. After our provodnitsa came through the cabin to hand out our bedding and snack boxes we settled in for the short overnight journey.
Moscow
Home of Russia’s most iconic sights including St Basil’s Cathedral and The Kremlin, I couldn’t wait to start exploring Moscow, despite having had very little sleep. From Red Square, to Stalin’s underground nuclear bunker to watching Russian ballet there is loads to do here. For many people this is the start or the end of the Trans-Siberian Railway but I had one more destination I just had to see.
Moscow to St Petersburg
The final leg of my Trans-Siberian journey, we boarded our last overnight train and settled in with some celebratory vodkas as we left behind Russia’s capital and headed toward the Imperial city of Tsars.
St Petersburg
I arrived at 6:30am in my final destination and said goodbye to those I had shared the past two and a half weeks with. St Petersburg, once the capital of the Russian Empire, was home of the tsars for over 200 years. You’ve likely heard of Peter the Great who founded the city. Here I explored world renowned museums, visited palaces and ventured behind its’ fortress walls. For my complete guide to St Petersburg click here.
After 17 days, covering 8,515km across 3 countries, it was over all too fast. The different cultures, the food, the people and the bucket list sights are all things that will stay with me for the rest of my life. I recommend this trip to anyone who gets the chance.
